Difference between revisions of "3d printer"

Revision as of 17:13, 16 May 2013

Information

• http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Newcomer_guide_to_your_first_3D_print
• 3D Software:
  • OpenSCAD is a script-based 3D editor. it can make use of parameters, conditions, for and while loops, etc... This is currently Petaflot's choice
  • http://www.3dtin.com/ Online in the browser
  • http://www.netfabb.com/download.php (Linux version)
• Printing software:
  • https://print.fixme.ch web interface to replace Printrun/Cura (still need Slic3r to create the gcode)
  • Slic3r and Printrun
  • Cura
• http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Jamming
• To check, http://projectsilkworm.com/
• Check STL files for printability: http://cloud.netfabb.com/
• Buy material in switzerland: Resources#3D_Printer

Cura for printing

Installation

• http://daid.github.com/Cura/
• it's the only software worth it
• Yes, you will need PyOpenGL for it to run. Displaying nice 3d images is not that trivial.

• Recommended: Use the dev version on github: https://github.com/daid/Cura.git (12.10 when I'm writing)
• Required packages: wxPython and PyOpenGL.
• You can use a python virtualenv.

First use

• On first Cura start, you don't need to upgrade to Marlin firmware because it's already done.
• You should run the checks, at least to check if USB connection between PC and the printer is working. For temperature check, the printer need to cool down (to ~30) before heating and check, it can take looong time.
• Now you can use Cura to print objects.

Printing

• Load a .stl model.
• Change orientation, size, etc...
• Click on the Prepare print button.
• Software will slice the object into GCode. The more you choose a large scale object, the longer the execution time is.
• When it done, click on Print button to open the Printing dialog.
• Wait the software connect with the printer, Connection button will turn from clickable to readonly and Print button will turn from readonly to clickable.
• Set the temperature with the arrows (yeah it's not working by putting the number directly)
• Wait a bit so the hot end is distributively warmed
• Extrude before printing, so the wire is at the start of the hot end
• Make sure the wire is extruding correctly (the output wire is regular)
• Click the Print button.
• KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE PRINTER THROUGHOUT THE PRINTING PROCESS!!! And clean which could interfere the printing.

After printing

• If a pile of plastic has formed in the extruder, remove the wire complitely and cut it

Todo

Stuff to print

• New fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25611

Files

• FIXME keychain: File:Fixme-key.stl
• Tablet support: File:Tablet-support.stl
• Pincette: File:Pincette-led.stl File:Pincette-piles.stl

Photos

• 

  Ultimaker 3D printer

• 
• 
• 
• 

  Raspberry Pi case

• 

  Cells Ball

• 

  8bit Heart

• 

  Companion Cube (Portal)

• 

  Pickaxe

• 

  Keychain

• 

  Keychain 2

• 

  Metric bolts

• 

  Pincette aimantée

• 

  Creepers

Issues to fix

New parts

• Advices from FabLab Munchen: https://plus.google.com/u/0/118147898615631299121/posts/Kckxn1ssgUt
  • http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Upgrade:_Extruder_drive_v2 - 22 Euro
  • http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Hot_end_v2 - 56 Euro
  • http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Knurled_Drive_Bolt_Pack - 16 Euro
• Self-printer alternatives
  • http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094 Extruder upgrade

Malfonction

• Needs a new tube and fixation
• One of the nozzle is loose. When the extrusion begins, the pipe move
  • Nemen has printed a piece for fixin'
  • http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27376
• Software is kind of crappy
  • We should use Slic3r and Printrun
• Belt tension: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grHmmmSoOfc&
• Thermocoupler and the heater are stuck in the head

Other resources

• http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/rocknail/filabot-plastic-filament-maker