3d printer

Software

Sketchup is a free, popular and most importantly, easy to use software which allows for the quick creation of 3D models (requires su2stl plugin for STL export/import)
- Sketchup 2013 Mac
- Sketchup 2013 Windows
- Sketchup 8 Windows (This version works with wine)
OpenSCAD is a script-based 3D editor, which can make use of parameters, conditions, for and while loops, etc... This is currently Petaflot's choice
3DTin is an online WebGL 3D modeling web-app
Netfabb (Linux version)

https://print.fixme.ch web interface to replace Printrun/Cura (still need Slic3r to create the gcode)
- Currently not connected to the printer
- Used for the webcam: http://webcam.fixme.ch
Slic3r and Printrun
- Cura
To check, http://projectsilkworm.com/
Check STL files for printability: http://cloud.netfabb.com/
Buy material in switzerland: Resources#3D_Printer

http://daid.github.com/Cura/
it's the only software worth it
Yes, you will need PyOpenGL for it to run. Displaying nice 3d images is not that trivial.

Recommended: Use the dev version on github: https://github.com/daid/Cura.git (12.10 when I'm writing)
Required packages: wxPython and PyOpenGL.
You can use a python virtualenv.

On first Cura start, you don't need to upgrade to Marlin firmware because it's already done.
You should run the checks, at least to check if USB connection between PC and the printer is working. For temperature check, the printer need to cool down (to ~30) before heating and check, it can take looong time.
Now you can use Cura to print objects.

Maximum length/width: 180mm

Load a .stl model.
Change orientation, size, etc...
Check settings on the left (and in the different tabs)
Click on the Prepare print button.
Software will slice the object into GCode. The more you choose a large scale object, the longer the execution time is.
When it done, click on Print button to open the Printing dialog.
Wait the software connect with the printer, Connection button will turn from clickable to readonly and Print button will turn from readonly to clickable.
Set the temperature with the arrows (yeah it's not working by putting the number directly)
Wait a bit so the hot end is distributively warmed
Extrude before printing, so the wire is at the start of the hot end
Make sure the wire is extruding correctly (the output wire is regular)
Click the Print button.

Walls: 0.4 (1 wall) is good
Print speed: 80mm/s is clean (you may increase temperature for more speed)
Infill:
- strong material, 80-100%
- Light print, 10-15%
Temparatures: ~230-240°
Support type:
- Exterior when there's a big overhang (we made a 10cm overhang without support, but generally it's >1cm)
- None in general
Raft: needed when there are small pieces at the bottom (so they stick to the bed)
Experiment !

KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE PRINTER THROUGHOUT THE PRINTING PROCESS!!! And clean what could interfere with the printing.
BE carefull with the end stops, if they don't work, turn OFF the printer immediatly and fix them (by bending the metal part a little bit for instance)

If a pile of plastic has formed in the extruder, remove the wire complitely and cut it
Put the leftover in the box, maybe one day we'll be able to recycle it!

To buy new PLA filament and upgrade parts, there's a piggy bank next to the printer
The cost in filament is indicated by Cura, just take a guess to add general maintenance cost of the printer

End stops are getting crapy
Belt tension is bad
Y alignement problems
Fan can't be turned off (electrical problem?)
~~http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Jamming~~
~~Needs a new tube and fixation~~
~~One of the nozzle is loose. When the extrusion begins, the pipe move~~
- ~~Nemen has printed a piece for fixin'~~
- ~~http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27376~~
~~Belt tension: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grHmmmSoOfc&~~
~~Thermocoupler and the heater are stuck in the head~~