Changes

Old makerspace laser cutter

11,641 bytes added, 15:49, 7 January 2017
/* Blender */
== Usage ==
::'''''Step 0''' - Turn on the laser cutter if you plan to use it, as it takes 5 minutes to warm up. Turn it on using the red and green buttons simultaneously on the right hand side.''# '''Prepare your file to cut or engrave'''. You'll need a .dxf file with all the paths stroked at 0.25px, with each different color of the paths representing a different cut/engrave settings layerparameters. You can find such files by searching on [https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=laser+cut&sa= Thingiverse] and other related sites, or creating your own with software such as [[#Inkscape|Inkscape]], [[#Illustrator|Illustrator]], [[#RhinoInventor|RhinoInventor]], or many others. Unfortunately many of the files you find online are in .ai, .pdf or .svg, you'll need to open them in one of these apps and export them to .dxf.# '''Open the file in Laserworks'''. On the machine next to the laser cutter, plug in your USB key, and then import the .dxf via File > Import (ctr + i). If in the preview section you do Laserworks says that it did not see the shapesfind any data, it means that you did not format your file correctly, or you used an incompatible file type. The same applies if If you import used illustrator, it and Laserworks says that it did not find any datamay be due to having sublayers, which laserworks doesn't see.# '''Scale and arrange your paths'''. Once you have imported your .dxf, the paths in the file will be shown in Laserworks. You can either select all of the elementspaths, or select just one of them, and scale using the black boxes arrows on the sides, or by changing the values in the scale toolbar on the top. It is also possible to move your paths by clicking and dragging the pink cross in the middle. You can group your paths using the group button on the top toolbar.# '''Add or edit paths'''. You can do some basics edits in Laserworks with the toolbar on the left. If you want to cut/engrave your paths with different settings, you can set each paths' parameters by choosing a colour on the bottom toolbar. For example: you want to engrave a design, and cut a circle around it - so you set the design to red, and the circle to black.# '''Select your engrave/cut parameters'''. On the top of the toolbar on the right, you'll see that each colour has its own parameters, and you can edit each one by double-clicking on it.## '''Output''' Set to yes in order for your paths to cut/engrave (setting it to no could be useful if you have construction/instructional paths or you have multiple designs in the same file).## '''Speed'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct speed for cutting.## '''Blowing'''. Set to yes, this is the internal air compressor that blows out of the mirror head.## '''Processing mode'''. <u>Set this first</u> as all the following settings will depend on it. ''Cut'' will cut along the paths as a vector, ''scan'' will engrave between the lines of your paths, and ''dot'' will make a dotted outline of your paths.## '''Power'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct power.## '''Ramp Effect'''. The exact use for this feature is unknown, however it is suspected that this can be used for stamps. Leave disabled.## '''Overstriking'''. Sets how bold your scan will be - if left at Un-process, your scan (engraving) will be normal, if set to Intagilo, your scan will be bolder (wider/thicker edges), and if set to Rilievi, it will be lighter. It is best to leave it Un-processed.## '''Scan mode'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Unilaterism mode will scan/engrave one line at each time the laser head passes, and swing mode will scan/engrave two lines at each pass, going in both directions. Uni mode gives better results but takes twice as long as swing mode. Set x if the paths are wider on the x scale than on the y scale, and choose y for when the paths are longer on the y scale - this optimises laser time.## '''Interval'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Set the distance between each laser pass. 0.1mm is the minimum distance, and will produce results similar to a printer - but it takes a lot of time. 0.2mm is a good average, you can't really see the space between the passes. You can go up to 0.4mm before it starts to be somewhat visible.## '''Interval > Advance'''. The cut after sweeping option allows you to make a contour along the edges of what you engraved. This can be useful for making letters clearer for example, however it can also make your job messier (especially if there are lots of small details). You can set the settings for this just like you would for a normal cut, however you can lower the power down to as little as 5.7% for a very light outline.# '''Place your material into the laser cutter'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] below for a list of materials that you can use. It is recommended that you align your material as close to the upper left corner as possible, as that is where the laser is strongest. # '''Make sure that the material is flat.''' Your cut/engrave will be of a lower quality if there is up to 0.5mm height difference, and your material may damage the laser machine if there is a 0.8mm or more height difference! Use yellow painting tape to stick it to the edges, or pick a different piece of your material if there is too much height difference.# '''Align the mirror head.''' Laserworks cuts from the green square, so make sure that you align the mirror head to the top right side of your design on the material you're cutting, with the four blue arrow buttons on the laser machine. Measure out the total distance of your design (in laserworks, ctrl + a, then see the width and height in mm), and make sure that it <u>doesn't go outside of your material and especially not outside of the cutting bed!</u> You can use the 'Go scale' button to show you the outer dimensions of your cut without cutting on the laser machine.# '''Align the height'''. There is an auto-focus feature on the laser, however unfortunately it is not currently functional due to a broken piece. Please see someone who knows how to use the laser to find out how to align the height correctly.# '''Make a final check of everything'''. Make sure that there are no obstructions inside the laser machine, make sure that you've set all the correct cutting speeds and powers, and make sure that your cut/scan does not go outside of the borders of the cutting bed. If you want a preview of what the laser will do, select everything in Laserworks, and click the preview button on the top toolbar.# '''Turn on the ventilation and close lid'''. Turn on the extraction fan by turning on the black powerstrip under the laser machine. Close the lid and put on your safety glasses.# '''Start your cut/engrave!'''. After making sure that everything is good (and that you have the proper authorizations to use the laser machine), select everything you want to cut (ctrl + a), and press the 'Start' button in LaserWorks!# '''Monitor the machine'''. Whilst the machine is working, you ''have'' to be nearby watching what it's doing!! If the material that you're cutting starts burning, immediately stop the cut, move the mirror head out of the way, and extinguish the fire with the fire blanket nearby (water will damage the machine). The renens fablab had their laser machine partially destroyed because someone went out to smoke whilst letting the laser cutter working - <u>so pay attention!</u>.# '''After the machine has finished.''' When the job is finished, you will hear the laser beep three times, and you'll see the time on the small laser machine screen stop going up. Wait 30 seconds for the fumes to get extracted, and then proceed to open the lid. Make sure to remove all of the material from the machine - put the larger scraps on the shelves next to the machine for others to use, and throw away the smaller ones into the correct recycling bin. Remove any tape that remains, and move the mirror head to the top right side of the machine. Turn if off after leaving it to cool down for a few minutes (unless you're going to use it later in the day - it is best to leave it on in that case).# '''Finish your pieces.''' Clean your completed pieces with compressed air (will get rid of all the carbon and dust accumulated), remove and protective tape, and optionally clean it with alcohol to remove any sediment (works great on both acrylic and wood).# '''Leave the laser machine space as you found it.''' Remove your usb key, put all the things you used back into their places, and make sure that the place around the laser cutter is generally clean.<br>
* Always cut with lid closed
* Always wear safety goggles
# Drag your image into illustrator, and click on Image Trace (use the arrow on the right to find the best settings, or press the settings button to custom set the settings)
# Click the expand button
 
==== Outlines of shapes ====
[http://stickerobot.com/blog/die-cut-stickers/sticker-tutorial-making-die-cut-shapes-in-adobe-illustrator/ Sticker tutorial] but also applicable to laser cutting
=== Rhino ===
Used by Swisskoo and marc
 
=== Blender ===
Used by [[User:oenvoyage]]
# work with 2D bezier curves and add some extrusion (typically the width of your wood) while modeling your plates
# enable the Export Autocad DXF exporter Addon (File->User Preferences-> AddOn-> search DXF)
# before exporting: reduce the extrusion to 0, switch back your curves to 3D mode (Data panel-> shape-> 3D)
# Convert your bezier curves to Mesh (Alt-C)
# File -> Export -> Autocad (.dxf)
Somehow the DXF exported directly is not recognized by LaserWork, so you have to open it in Illustrator and save again as .dxf and make sure it's R13/LT95 format
=== Autodesk Inventor ===
Used by Swisskooand [[User:Nemen]] ==== Export to .dxf ==== # Right-click on the face of your part you want to export.# Choose "Export face as"# Type the filename and click on Save
== Laser software ==
=== Acrylic ===
8-20mm/s, engraving at 20% 500mm/s
 
=== Rubber ===
# Focus laser at 6mm higher than usual (use two pieces of 3mm plexi)
# Engrave at 200mm/s, 20% and 0.2 unilat
# Do 6 passes total, changing the unilaterism between x and y for an even surface
# Clean surface with compressed air to remove the rubber dust between passes
# Stick rubber cut part onto a support material for when you want to make a stamp
 
Marc has bought A4 sheets at 57 CHF sheet, however [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] you can get them for 20$ per single sheet, or for 7$ [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] if you buy in lots of 5.
 
=== Mylar/thin plastic ===
[http://juanjchong.com/2014/cutting-mylar-solder-stencils-from-expresspcb-and-eaglecad-files/ This] might be an interesting technique to try for thin plastics, such as those used for PCB stencils. The idea is that you have two layers of the material that you cut at the same time, the top one will be scrapped after, but the bottom one should be good - need to try this technique.
=== Others ===
[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]
 
=== NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS ===
 
'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html a simple process].
 
{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|}
 
List from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX hackerspace]'s wiki
 
[[File:Never_cut_list.pdf]]
== Hardware ==
According to cononelmoutarde (Marc/Workshop Ninja), the laser cutter is a [http://en.keylandlaser.com/show.asp?id=181 Keyland Laser 1060].
 
Search terms: Ebay 100w laser or just 100w laser - it's a generic design (3500~4000 usd for laser cutter with/without shipping depending on source, ~1000 usd for laser tube with shipping). RD-ACS [http://rdacs.en.alibaba.com/product/1560634708-220105172/laser_machine_control_card.html controller] (generic controller so used in lots of laser cutters).
[[File:Laser cutter early acrylic test.jpg|500px]]
 
'''Rubber'''
 
[[File:FIXME_laser_cut_rubber_stamp.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Rubber_stamp_closeup_after_engraving_whilst_still_in_sheet.jpg|500px]]
'''Others'''
[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]
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