Fixme.ch - User contributions [en]

ToDo

2024-01-26T21:33:59Z

Sasha: Added talk from PLD

== Information ==
Regula[to]ry conferences or workshop nights @ FIXME.
* [https://www.twitch.tv/fixme_hs Twitch channel]
* [https://youtube.com/@fixme-hackerspace Youtube channel]

== 2024 ==

* Fri 15.03.2024: Future of AI in Switzerland: GPU poor or GPU rich? by PLD

== 2023 ==

* Fri 20.01.2023: Ansible by Nemen
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_uf1J5pjzE
* Fri 24.02.2023: Docker
* Fri 31.03.2023: Orbital: How to create a video game on a single LED strip by Protectator and Binary Brain
* Fri 14.04.2023: TBD

== 2020 ==

* Fri 06.03.2020: TELETEXT Must Not Die by Mathias
* Fri 10.04.2020: Subversive Electronic Music by Will (CANCELED)
* Fri 10.09.2020: Les logos pas beaux dans l'open source by Binary Brain

== 2019 ==

* Fri 22.02.2019: <s>Gender Hacking by D4m13n</s> REPORTED
* Fri 29.03.2019: Drones Physics 101 by Rorist
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umWint4hThI&t=2962s
* Fri 26.04.2019: <s>Fundamental of bluetooth and ubertooth one by Defragm</s> CANCELED
* Fri 04.05.2019: Rust VS Go Battle by LSZR and Francois
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfowPSQlVx0
* Fri 24.05.2019: Smart Contract by Romain
* Fri 14.06.2019: Build your own IoT device with ESP32 by BinaryBrain
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIstd3wjAUI
* Fri 16.08.2019: <s>Let's talk to the ISS (Satnogs 101) by Olivier</s>
* Fri 06.09.2019: <s>VHDL_isTAmère II by Philoux (French conf) </s> REPORTED
* Fri 25.10.2019: Wireguard par Benoît
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJA4hgK884g
* Wed 06.11.2019: MeetUp "Suisse Romande NixOS User Group" présentation Guix par [[User:Pirboazo]].
* You!

== 2018 ==

* Fri 25.05.2018: OSINT for beginners (with examples) by Noskill
** Talk is available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEYs4p1dyR4&t=10m on youtube]
* Fri 15.06.2018: Programming Language Oenology for Trolls by Marv
** Slides: [[Media:Oenology.pdf]]
* Thu 26.07.2018: Python for dummies by Nemen
** Talk is available [https://youtu.be/dY2BQ4_LCFQ on youtube]
* Fri 17.08.2018: VHDLise ta mère by Philou
** Talk is available [https://youtu.be/MDdDgHM0GYk on youtube]
* Fri 14.09.2018: My Code is Containerized. Now What? Kubernetes Basics by Francois
** Talk is available [https://youtu.be/StrtrCLRGFM on youtube]
** [[Media:My_Code_is_Containerized_Now_What_Handout.pdf]]
* Fri 12.10.2018: Random tidbits and retro stuff by Fzn
** Talk is available [ftp://ftp.fixme.ch/incoming/incoming/random-tidbits-fzn.mkv on the FTP]
* Fri 23.11.2018: Python, will it Blend(er)? by Oenvoyage
** Talk is available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMSt99ZjJx4 on youtube]
* <s>Fri 14.12.2018: Embrace Failure by Gcmalloc</s>

== Live setup ==
* If you want to use the VGA2USB by Epiphan, [https://www.epiphan.com/products/vga2usb/downloads/ download the drivers]

File:As tu pense a eteindre.pdf

2023-11-10T22:20:40Z

Sasha: Poster for fixme power consumption

Poster for fixme power consumption

CCCamp2023

2023-07-03T20:48:23Z

Sasha: Added Sasha participation

[[Category:Closed_Projects]][[Category:Conferences]]
== Information ==

The Chaos Communication Camp will take place in [https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/267114042|Ziegeleipark Mildenberg] between August 15th to August 19th 2023.

* WIKI: https://events.ccc.de/camp/2023/infos/index.html
* BLOG: https://events.ccc.de/2023/04/21/camp2023/#eng-camp2023-intro
* MERCH: https://tickets.events.ccc.de/camp2023-merch/
* BADGE: https://events.ccc.de/2023/06/05/camp23-the-flow3r-badge/
* MAP: https://map.events.ccc.de

#cccamp23

== FIXME Camp: Lemanicus ==

* Backoffice Village configuration: https://events.ccc.de/camp/2023/hub/backoffice/assembly/d9ca3360-8cef-4840-8343-b58ae92d203e
* Discussion is happening on [[Chat]] channel [https://chat.fixme.ch/fixme/channels/20_cccamp2023 20_cccamp2023]

We plan to bring the following equipment with us:
* LEDs
* SDR stuff (including a couple of rad1o badges)
* Power strips and a lot of fucking cables
* "Cyber" music amp
* A "fixed" DECT phone for the Village (who can bring one?)
* Orbital Portable
* ESP, Arduino, Rpi
* Board games
* Tools (let's organize to avoid bringing 7 drills and 25 pliers)
* Video Projector? (TV) Screen?
* Something super swiss for visitors, like Cenovis or Ragusa :D
* ...

=== To order ===

https://tickets.events.ccc.de/camp2023-villages/

* 1x Standard Tent Small 6x6 (€ 1450)
* 4x tables (€ 120)
* 16x chairs (€ 80)
* 1x Cutlery set (25x knife, 25x fork, 25x spoon) (€ 55)
* 1x 25 Dinner Plates (€ 55)

TOTAL: € XXXX

== Phone numbers ==

* https://guru3.eventphone.de/
* Number generator https://binarybrain.github.io/4-numbers-viz/

== Projects ==

* TBD

== Tickets ==

* Prices: 380 EUR for a Standard Ticket
* Vouchers: There will be NO vouchers this year https://events.ccc.de/2023/05/08/prepresale/

=== Who has a ticket ? ===

We took extra tickets to distributes to the fixme community. Here is who has tickets to sell and to who they have been sold to.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Tickets available!! Given to
|-
| [[User:Rorist|Rorist]] || 0 || Pierre-Loic, Beug, Luk
|-
| Francois || 0 || BinaryBrain, Epic Feihl, tsundokusuisse, D4m13n
|-
| [[User:PorCus|PorCus]] || 0 || Protectator, Grendup
|-
| marv || 0 ||
|-
| [[User:Sasha|Sasha]]+1 || 0 ||
|-
|}

== Transport ==

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Car/Plane/Train !! Arrival !! Departure
|-
| [[User:Rorist|Rorist]] || car ? || ??? || ???
|-
| [[User:PorCus|PorCus]] || looking for a car ride / would consider renting one || ??? || ???
|-
| [[User:Francois|Francois]]+1 || car ? Caravan ? || ??? || ???
|-
| [[User:Sasha|Sasha]]+1 || Plane + Train || EZS1187 12.08 || NJ408 19.08
|}

== See also ==
* [[CCCamp2019]]
* [[CCCamp2015]]
* [[RC3]]
* [[37C3]]
* [[36C3]]
* [[35C3]]
* [[34C3]]
* [[33C3]]
* [[32C3]]
* [[31C3]]
* [[30C3]]
* [[29C3]]
* [[28C3]]

37C3

2022-10-09T19:18:40Z

Sasha:

[[Category:Open_Projects]]
[[Category:Conferences]]
December 27th–30th 2022, Hamburg

The 37th Chaos Communication Congress (37C3) is an annual four-day conference on technology, society and utopia. The Congress offers lectures and workshops and various events on a multitude of topics including (but not limited to) information technology and generally a critical-creative attitude towards technology and the discussion about the effects of technological advances on society.

== Information ==
* Preliminary announcement: https://www.ccc.de/en/updates/2022/37-chaos-communication-congress-in-hamburg
* Blog: https://events.ccc.de/category/37c3/
* Wiki: https://events.ccc.de/congress/2022/wiki/Main_Page
* GSM/DECT: https://www.eventphone.de/guru2/
* Discussion: https://chat.fixme.ch/fixme/channels/20_37c3

== Token wait list ==

In order for every interested participants to the C3 to get its ticket, you agree to pay your ticket as soon as it was ordered (or have someone else do it for you). The goal is to avoid the token being stuck waiting for payment for a long time. Thanks!

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Token received !! Ticket ordered !! New token received
|-
| [[User:Rorist|Rorist]] || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| marv || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| [[User:Binary_Brain|Binary Brain]] || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| Epic Feihl || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| [[User:Protectator|Protectator]] || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| mutex || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| Sasha || ??? || ??? || ???
|}

== People coming ==

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Ticket !! Transport to HAM !! Transport from HAM !! Hotel
|-
| [[User:Rorist|Rorist]] || No || Train ?? || Train ?? || Radisson Blu
|-
| marv || nope || train || train || The Suites
|-
| [[User:Binary_Brain|Binary Brain]] || No || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| Epic Feihl || No || ??? || ??? || ???
|-
| [[User:Protectator|Protectator]] || No || Train? || Train? || ???
|-
| mutex || No || Train ?? || Train ?? || Pyjama Park Schanzenviertel (encore de la place .. reservé pour 6) http://www.fritz-im-pyjama.de/hotel
|-
| Sasha || No || ?? || ?? || ???
|-
| ''YOU'' || ??? || ??? || ??? || ???
|+
! Total
!
!
!
!
|}

=== Plane ===

=== Phone ===

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Extension !! Type
|-
|-
|}

== Congress Everywhere ==

Live streaming of conferences in our cosy hackerspace. Cold drinks, fast Internet and nice folks. Feel free to join in.

Synchronisation will take place on our [[Chat]]: https://chat.fixme.ch/fixme/channels/20_37c3

== See also ==

* [[CCCamp2019]]
* [[CCCamp2015]]
* [[RC3_2020]]
* [[RC3_2021]]
* [[36C3]]
* [[35C3]]
* [[34C3]]
* [[33C3]]
* [[32C3]]
* [[31C3]]
* [[30C3]]
* [[29C3]]
* [[28C3]]

LED Lighting

2022-04-17T13:40:27Z

Sasha: Added specs for LED lights

= Specs =
* Our ceiling is covered with '''~100m of LED strips'''
* 5050 RGB 60 LED/m strips that were previously used for this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mIPOYKuu2M art instalation]
* Controlled using Magic Home controllers and custom software built around the [https://github.com/beville/flux_led flux_led library]
* Powered by 12v 30a JCPOWER power supplies

= Control =
* You can control them with our good old [https://foo.fixme.ch/trigger.html trigger].
* You can control LED strips with the official app Magic Home Pro for [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.zengge.wifi Android] or [https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/magic-home-pro/id1187808229?mt=8 iOS].
* You can also use the [https://github.com/beville/flux_led flux_led] library, or some [https://git.fixme.ch/francois/34c3/src/master/led implementation] from FIXME.
* A script for controlling through Blender objects exists [https://fixme.ch/wiki/File:Flux_controller.blend.zip here]
* A physicial switch is able to turn on/off the LEDs https://git.fixme.ch/sasha/led-switch-box

== API ==
* https://git.fixme.ch/FIXME/led-ctrl-2018
* Deployed on [[Kubernetes]]
* Everything is in the repo, but it's a python script using Flask that runs on Apache though wsgi
* Usage example:
<pre>
curl https://led.fixme.ch/ -XGET
curl https://led.fixme.ch/status -XGET
curl https://led.fixme.ch/ctrl -XPOST -d 'do=on'
curl https://led.fixme.ch/ctrl -XPOST -d 'do=off'
curl https://led.fixme.ch/ctrl -XPOST -d 'do=police'
curl https://led.fixme.ch/ctrl -XPOST -d 'do=color&r=255&g=0&b=0'
</pre>

= Devices =
* Each line are controlled by a wifi device
* Here the list of the current IPs and MAC addresses:
<pre>
192.168.130.78 60:01:94:96:09:0C
192.168.130.80 DC:4F:22:81:56:8A
192.168.130.105 DC:4F:22:81:3B:FE
192.168.130.130 DC:4F:22:81:5D:F5
192.168.130.134 60:01:94:95:8A:A8
192.168.130.143 60:01:94:95:A6:E0
192.168.130.173 60:01:94:95:A6:E1
192.168.130.225 DC:4F:22:81:5E:03
192.168.130.237 DC:4F:22:81:53:37
192.168.130.238 DC:4F:22:81:53:33
</pre>

== Mapping ==
From North to South:
<pre>
192.168.130.105 DC:4F:22:81:3B:FE
192.168.130.80 DC:4F:22:81:56:8A
192.168.130.78 60:01:94:96:09:0C
192.168.130.173 60:01:94:95:A6:E1
192.168.130.238 DC:4F:22:81:53:33
192.168.130.225 DC:4F:22:81:5E:03
</pre>
From East to West:
<pre>
192.168.130.134 60:01:94:95:8A:A8
192.168.130.237 DC:4F:22:81:53:37
192.168.130.143 60:01:94:95:A6:E0
192.168.130.130 DC:4F:22:81:5D:F5
</pre>

== TRON ==
The TRON also has some LEDs in it.

<pre>
192.168.130.31 60:01:94:95:EB:D7 (Background)
192.168.130.219 60:01:94:95:79:0E (Header - Top)
192.168.130.232 60:01:94:91:3A:41 (Header - Bottom)
</pre>

''Notice: There is actually two different controller for the header as it requires quite a lot of power.''

Light experience

2020-09-04T18:37:22Z

Sasha: Initial page creation

'''Experience music through the brilliance of light ✨'''

Light experience is an interactive installation that allows you to '''experience music through light''' - imagine being able to 'see' music through your own eyes. This immersive experience leverages sound processing technology and smart lights to uplevel your listening experience.

== Background ==
The experience leverages two key technologies: sound processing and smart lights. Using sound processing, it pulls audio from a line in or microphone input on a small embedded computer. After filtering the input and detecting beats, the experience employs smart lights to change the light of the space that you're in.

== Technology ==
At it's core, the code is written in python using pyaudio. It runs some low level signal processing logic on a line in input, converting raw audio into values. The values go through a series of filters, where the code pulls out beats from the values. Once the beats are detected, it sends the values to LED strips over WiFi. The LED strips then change color, responding to the music.

You can find the code on Github: [https://github.com/sasha42/Music-LED sasha42/Music-LED]

== Contributing ==
You can contribute to the code by pulling the git repository, and modifying the code on your computer.

There is a Raspberry Pi set up with this code running at FIXME. You can access it over the `FIXME-NAT` WiFi network using the following credentials:

ssh pi@192.168.130.163

This uses the standard FIXME password. You can ask Sasha if you're not aware.

36C3

2019-10-28T21:07:11Z

Sasha: /* Token wait list */

[[Category:Open_Projects]]
[[Category:Conferences]]
December 27th–30th 2019, Leipzig

The 36th Chaos Communication Congress (36C3) is an annual four-day conference on technology, society and utopia. The Congress offers lectures and workshops and various events on a multitude of topics including (but not limited to) information technology and generally a critical-creative attitude towards technology and the discussion about the effects of technological advances on society.

== Information ==
* Blog: https://events.ccc.de/category/36c3/
* Wiki: https://events.ccc.de/congress/2019/wiki/Main_Page
* GSM/DECT: https://www.eventphone.de/guru2/
* Discussion: https://chat.fixme.ch/fixme/channels/20_36c3

== Token wait list ==

In order for every interested participants to the 36C3 to get its ticket, you agree to pay your ticket as soon as it was ordered (or have someone else do it for you). The goal is to avoid the token being stuck waiting for payment for a long time. Thanks!

* More details on how it actually works: https://tickets.events.ccc.de/36c3/docs/
* FIXME Received 3 vouchers on the 19th of October
* Take your ticket and give the new voucher when you receive it to the next person in the list
* '''Please use Credit card payment if possible, even if it leads to higher costs. Bank transfer takes time and block the token, all participant may not get ticket before sale period expire (as seen with Camp last summer)'''

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Token received !! Ticket ordered !! New token received
|-
| [[User:Rorist|Rorist]] || 19.10.2019 || 21.10.2019 || 22.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Binary_Brain|Binary Brain]] || 19.10.2019 || 21.10.2019 || 23.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Binary_Brain|Binary Brain + 1]] || 23.10.2019 || 23.10.2019 || 24.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Mutex|Mutex]] || 19.10.2019 || 21.10.2019 || 22.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Mutex|Mutex+1]] || 22.10.2019 || 22.10.2019 || 23.10.2019
|-
| [[User:polto|polto]] || 22.10.2019 || 22.10.2019 || 23.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Marv]] || 23.10.2019 || 23.10.2019 || 24.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Marv]]+1 || 23.10.2019 || 23.10.2019 || 24.10.2019
|-
| [[User:PorCus]] || 24.10.2019 || 24.10.2019 || 25.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Mc]] || 24.10.2019 || 24.10.2019 || 25.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Rachyandco|Alexis]] || 24.10.2019 || 24.10.2019 || 25.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Marv]]+2 || 25.10.2019 || 25.10.2019 || 28.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Gcmalloc]] || 25.10.2019 || XXX || XXX
|-
| [[User:Sasha]] || 25.10.2019 || 26.10.2019 || 28.10.2019
|-
| [[User:Traffael]] || 28.10.2019 || XXX || XXX
|-
| [[User:Rachyandco|Alexis]]+6 || XXX || XXX || XXX
|-
| [[User:Mutex|Mutex+2]] || XXX || XXX || XXX
|-
| [[User:Polto|Polto +3 ]] || XXX || XXX || XXX
|}

== People coming ==

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Ticket !! Transport to LEJ !! Transport from LEJ !! Hotel
|-
| Rorist || Yes || TBD || TBD || Five Elements Leipzig
|-
| BinaryBrain || Yes || Lufthansa 26.12, departure: 7:10, arrival: 10:10 || Lufthansa 30.12, departure 18:40, arrival: 22:10 || Pentahotel Leipzig
|-
| Mutex || Yes || Car (no space left) || Car (no space left) || Five Elements Leipzig
|-
| PorCus / Will || Yes || LH5765/LH160 26.12 || LH2167/LH5758 31.12 || City Inn Leipzig
|-
| Rachyandco / Alexis || Yes || Train from Strasbourg || Train to Strasbourg || Hôtel royal international
|+
! Total
!
!
!
!
|}

=== Plane ===

=== Phone ===

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Extension !! Type
|-
|-
|}

== See also ==

* [[CCCamp2019]]
* [[CCCamp2015]]
* [[35C3]]
* [[34C3]]
* [[33C3]]
* [[32C3]]
* [[31C3]]
* [[30C3]]
* [[29C3]]
* [[28C3]]

36C3

2019-10-20T20:01:55Z

Sasha: /* Token wait list */

Orange Pi

2017-02-01T23:25:47Z

Sasha: put in correct MAC + instructions from armbian

== Orange Pi Zero ==
Orange Pi Zero is a $7 (with shipping) ARM microcomputer from China. Key features are quad core Cortex-A7, Ethernet & WiFi, RPi 1 pins, additional microphone, IR and TV out pins.

=== Setup ===
# [http://www.orangepi.org/downloadresources/ Download] firmware from a sketchy chinese site. [https://www.armbian.com/orange-pi-zero/ Armbian is an alternative.]
# Flash it with your favorite flashing tool for SD cards (dd, [https://etcher.io/ etcher])
# Boot up Orange Pi Zero, do a nmap on your subnet for a device with this MAC prefix: <code>8A:C0:F9</code>
# SSH into it with user <code>root</code> and password <code>orangepi</code>
# Resize partition with <code>sudo fs_resize</code>

Orange Pi

2017-02-01T20:04:28Z

Sasha: Created page with "== Orange Pi Zero == Orange Pi Zero is a $7 (with shipping) ARM microcomputer from China. Key features are quad core Cortex-A7, Ethernet & WiFi, RPi 1 pins, additional microph..."

== Orange Pi Zero ==
Orange Pi Zero is a $7 (with shipping) ARM microcomputer from China. Key features are quad core Cortex-A7, Ethernet & WiFi, RPi 1 pins, additional microphone, IR and TV out pins.

=== Setup ===
# [http://www.orangepi.org/downloadresources/ Download] firmware from a sketchy chinese site.
# Flash it with your favorite flashing tool for SD cards (dd, [https://etcher.io/ etcher])
# Boot up Orange Pi Zero, do a nmap on your subnet for a device with this MAC prefix: <code>4E:08:C2</code>
# SSH into it with user <code>root</code> and password <code>orangepi</code>
# Resize partition with <code>sudo fs_resize</code>

SHA2017

2017-01-02T23:48:34Z

Sasha: Created page with "Category:Open_Projects Category:Conferences '''August 4th–8th 2017, [http://osm.org/go/0E65_AaQ Scoutinglandgoed in Zeewolde], 55km east of Amsterdam, Netherlands'''..."

[[Category:Open_Projects]]
[[Category:Conferences]]
'''August 4th–8th 2017, [http://osm.org/go/0E65_AaQ Scoutinglandgoed in Zeewolde], 55km east of Amsterdam, Netherlands'''

SHA2017 is a non profit outdoor Hacker camp/conference taking place in The Netherlands from the 4th to 8th of August 2017. It is the successor of a string of similar events happening every four years. These are GHP, HEU, HIP, HAL, WTH, HAR and OHM. Similar events are EMF Camp 2016 in the UK, CCC Camp and congress in Germany.

Some pictures from OHM2013, the last camp:
[[File:OHM2013_pics.png]]
== Information ==
* Blog: https://sha2017.org/
* Wiki: https://orga.sha2017.org/
* irc.freenode.net/#sha2017

== Todo==

FIXME ?

== People coming ==

{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Ticket !! Transport to SHA? !! Transport from SHA? !! Tent?
|-
| [[User:Sasha|Sasha]] || Yes || ? || ? || ?
|+
! Total
!
!
!
!
|}

=== Phone ===
{| class="wikitable"
|+
! Name !! Extension !! Type
|-
| || ||
|-
|}

== See also ==
* [[CCCamp2015]]
* [[33C3]]
* [[32C3]]
* [[31C3]]
* [[30C3]]
* [[29C3]]
* [[28C3]]

File:OHM2013 pics.png

2017-01-02T23:46:56Z

Sasha:

FIXME2 TODO

2016-10-19T14:17:45Z

Sasha:

== TODO List ==

* Ranger l'espace de rangement
** Mettre le matériel dans des cartons labellisés
* Remettre en place la PrinterBot et l'ordinateur qui lui est dédié
* Définir l'emplacement de la bibliothèque
** Remettre les livres dans la bibliothèque
* Accrocher le white board
* Mettre en place un projecteur vidéo au plafond
** Définir si on met celui de FIXME0 ou un nouveau
* Mettre en place la nouvelle gâche et le système de badge à l'extérieur
* Monter des LEDs

Parts Order

2016-10-09T10:51:20Z

Sasha:

= Monthly wishlist =
[https://pad.fixme.ch/p/wishlist Monthly wishlist]

The concept is that you add items you feel are needed at fixme, with information such as price and the source (link). Throughout the month, fixme members add/comment extra items, and at the end of the month the list is first proposed on the mailing list for comments, and then proposed again in its final form for complete approval. The items will be bought if there are no objections for 3 days.

Such a system will be implemented to facilitate the purchase of small items that are not necessarily worth to be posted individually on the mailing list for. Feel free to link from stores on eBay, Taobao, Distrilec, etc.
= China =

We can also order parts from China at a very low sales price. However, such orders should be high volume for each part. [[TaoBao Order]]

= Evaluation of Distributors =

please share your experience with/view of the following:

* [http://ch.farnell.com/ farnell]
* [http://www.digikey.ch/?curr=EUR digikey]
* [http://de.futureelectronics.com/de/Seiten/index.aspx?OL=DE&Language=de-DE futureelectronics]
* [http://www.mouser.ch/ mouser]
* [http://www.taydaelectronics.com/ taydaelectronics]
* [http://ch.rs-online.com/web/ rs]
* [http://www.elv.ch/ elv]
* [http://www.tme.eu/en/ tme]
* [http://www.reichelt.com/ reichelt]
* [http://www.distrelec.ch/ Distrelec]
* ...

[http://www.tme.eu/en/ tme] was recommended by the Octanis folks, for stuff in the range of "components".

[http://www.reichelt.com/ reichelt] was used with satisfaction, for stuff between the range of "components" and "consumer electronics".

what was the story with [http://ch.farnell.com/ farnell] again? not dealing with private customers or something like that?

[https://octopart.com/ Octopart] is a pretty cool search engine for parts

= International Distributors =

We usually order from [http://digikey.com DigiKey] (free shipping, fairly cheap) or [http://www.futureelectronics.com Future Electronics] ($50 shipping, very cheap). [http://mouser.com Mouser] also ships free above 80 CHF.

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/ ebay like prices in centralised store

Because DigiKey and Future carry different parts, it is not easy to do a cheap order with exactly one part, because sometimes alternative parts exist in the other store that are cheaper.
List alternative parts in the ''Article Number'' field. Let's see how that works out.



== October 2014 : Farnell - (Ordered) ==

After to send a mail on the mailling list of Fixme under : Commande composants Electronique - Farnell, order sended the 03.10.214

<pre>
1/ Ferrites torique : 1.45/p => nb 10 => 14.50 => référence : 1422736 => Fixme
2/ Résistances 1k : 0.03/p => nb 100 => 3.- => référence : 1126839 => Fixme
3/ Transistor Bipolaire 2N3904 : 0.06/p => nb 100 => 6.- => référence : 1350591 => Fixme
4/ LED ROUGE 5mm : 0.1202/p => nb 100 => 12.02 => référence : 1045475 => Fixme
5/ Résistance 0.5 Ohm / 1W : 0.8/p => nb 10 => 8.- = > référence : 4955602 => Fixme
6/ Tone decodeur LM567 : 2.30/p => nb 10 => 23.- => référence : 1496187 => Fixme
7/ BEAGLEBONE BLACK REV C. CORTEX A8 : : 49.17 => nb 1 => 49.17 => référence : 2422228 => gcmalloc
</pre>

Total price : 114,88 CHF

== January 2014 : Boxtec - (Ordered) ==

ETA: 08.01.2014

<pre>
31014, 2, 5x EM4100 125khz RFID Key Tag, 4.95 #Nemen
31013, 2, 5x EM4100 125kHz RFID Card, 4.90 #Nemen
40971, 1, 433MHz RF Link Kit, 6.20 #Sasha
40828, 2, Audio Plug - 3.5mm, 0.95 #Sasha
33316, 1, AVR-ISP-MK2, 27.30 #Rick
31901, 1, PICAXE 8 Pin Proto Kit, 5.55 #Rorist
31901, 5, PICAXE 14M2 Microcontroller (14 pin), 4.50 #Rorist
31900, 5, PICAXE 08M2 Microcontroller (8Pin), 3.80 #Rorist
48803, 1, 20 in 1!Basic components mixed pack, 7.10 #Rorist
43006, 1, Grove - Serial Camera Kit, 33.50 #Rorist
43005, 2, 300K Pixel USB 2.0 Mini Webcam, 11.00 #Rorist
31029, 3, Grove - Infrared Receiver, 4.45 #Rorist2
31519, 1, ITEAD SIM900 GPRS/GSM minimum system module, 49.00 #Rorist2
47121, 3, Grove - Loudness Sensor, 6.80 #Rorist2
48352, 5, NCP1117 LDO Voltage Regulator 5.0V DPak, 0.75 #Rorist2
47913, 3, Fitec FS90 9g Mini Servo, 6.85 #Rorist2
</pre>

== October 2013 - (Cancelled) ==
how about july/aug? stil pending?

<pre>976-1077-ND, 10, Hi-Power LED BXRA-50C5300-H-00 # DL parce qu'on veut de la luce
XXXXXX-ND, 20, Hi-speed optocoupler # DL, faut encore choisir le composant....
</pre>

== January 2013 - Farnell - (Closed) ==

<pre>
2191863, 17, RASPBERRY PI MODEL B #Prosouth(6) + Sasha(2) + Chris + _gcmalloc(2) + rorist + Noskill + Florian(2) + Ale
1229687, 2, BULGIN - PX0447 - CONNECTEUR MINI USB B MONT PANNEAU #Damien
1280789, 2, PRO SIGNAL - PSG01500 - FICHE MALE JACK 3.5MM 4 BROCHES METAL #Sasha
1280665, 2, PRO SIGNAL - PSG01497 - FICHE FEMELLE JACK 3.5MM STEREO #Sasha
2113799, 1, BOITIER POUR RASPBERRY PI TRANSPARENT #Ale
</pre>

Commande passée le 12 mars par François, livraison mercredi 13 si tout va bien!

== January - Farnell - (Close) ==
<pre>
2113799, 5, BOITIER POUR RASPBERRY PI TRANSPARENT #Fred + Ol1v + Sasha + Nemen(2x)
2113798, 1, BOITIER POUR RASPBERRY PI BLACK #Fred
2095867, 1, BRIDGE USB TO 1-FIL RJ11 #Fred
8750025, 1, CABLE DVI VERS HDMI 1M #Rorist
2115733, 5, CABLE USB A M - MICRO B M 1.8M #Rorist(2x) + Nemen(3x)
1079903, 20, CONTACT A SERTIR 24-30 AWG #Fred (FIXME?)
1668591, 10, EMBASE 2.54MM SINGLE 9VOIES #Fred
1568025, 2, FEMELLE MICRO USB B MID MOUNT #Sasha
2191863, 2, RASPBERRY PI MODEL B #Nemen
1568398, 1, DC STECKER 5, 5/2, 1 MM #Nemen
8365830, 2, FICHE 3 VOIES 4MM AVEC LEVIERS #Nemen
</pre>

Frais de livraison : SFr. 15.00
TVA SFr. 18.40

Prix final : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuoAcKD1j_atdFBYWDM3NFE0b21IeW5fTExsQ0FMNXc

== July/August (pending) ==

<pre>
nemen, 5, 568-1484-5-ND # IC SHIFT REGISTER 8BIT 16DIP, $0.50
nemen, 5, ATTINY2313-20PU-ND # AT TINY 2313, $2.67
nemen, 5, ED60011-ND # 20DIP SUPPORT, $2.75
nemen, 10, 497-3186-5-ND # MOSFET N-CH 60V 30A TO-220, $1.02
simon, 20, SE3327-ND # CRYSTAL 77.5000KHZ 11PF CYL, $0.754
simon, 100, DMG3420U-7DICT-ND # MOSFET N-CH 20V 5.47A SOT23, $0.18560
</pre>

== August boxtec.ch (completed) ==

<pre>
3 x Ultrasonic Ranging Module HC-SR04 (47054) = CHF 37.20
4 x Mini 5V DC Power Relay SRD-5VDC-SL-C (48183) = CHF 12.80
1 x Duinomite MINI Basic Computer in small, compact form (31906) = CHF 27.20
5 x Shrouded Header 2x3pin (m) (48168) = CHF 7.50
5 x Shrouded Header 2x5pin (m) (48150) = CHF 8.00
5 x Ribbon Crimp Connector 2x5pin (f) (48151) = CHF 5.00
5 x Ribbon Crimp Connector 2x3pin (f) (48152) = CHF 4.25
4 x Stepper Motor with Cable (47923) = CHF 73.20
3 x USB Cable Mini USB (110cm) black (30306) = CHF 10.80
1 x 8x8 Dot Matrix 3mm dia. Bicolor LED Display (45006) = CHF 4.50
</pre>

==5 April 2012 (completed)==
''il me faut aussi des borniers à visser, pour du fil normal (max 2mm²) par 2 (15pc), 3 (15pc) et 12 (10pc)? je trouve pas sur digikey :-( si quelqu'un sait où trouver..'' [[User:Petaflot|Petaflot]] 15:52, 4 April 2012 (CEST)

<pre>
DL, 10, 360-1816-ND # on-off-on switches
DL, 3, 432-1257-ND # off-on-mom switches
DL, 3, 360-2073-ND # on-on-on switches
DL, 10, EG2394-ND # mom-off-on SPDT switches
DL, 3, 360-2080-ND # mom-off-on DPDT switches
DL, 1, 27931-ND # CO detector will make ND happy ;-)
DL, 4, LM2596S-ADJ-ND # to fix DC converters..
DL, 10, 568-1047-5-ND # I²C 8-bit LED driver with linux userspace utilities :-)
DL, 10, Z995-ND # relay socket, 5 pos through-hole
DL, 6, Z855-ND # relay socket, 5 pos DIN
DL, 2, Z2605-ND #relay socket, 8 pos
DL, 2, Z207-ND # relay socket 8 pos DIN
DL, 2 Z1637-ND # DPDT relay, 5A
DL, 10, Z1633-ND # 24V SPDT relay, 10A
DL, 15, 751-1129-ND #LEDs
DL, 15, 751-1114-ND #LEDs
DL, 15, 751-1153-ND #LEDs
DL, 5, 568-1416-5-ND #demux, active high output
DL, 5, 296-1600-5-ND #ShiftRegisters
DL, 5, 296-9217-5-ND # dual analog mux/demux
DL, 10, ED3114-ND # 14 pin DIP socket
DL, 10, 3M5463-ND # 16 pin DIP socket
DL, 10, 3M5476-ND # 18 pin DIP socket

337,78 Euros

NEM, 5, CP3-1000-ND # 2.1mm plug
NEM, 5 ATTINY13A-PU-ND # ATtiny13
NEM, 1, LM386N-1-ND # LM386 AMP Audio
NEM, 3, BH9V-PC-ND # Battery holder
NEM, 2, 3352T-104LF-ND # 100k variable resistor
NEM, 2, CP-3536-ND # 3.5mm jack
NEM, 1, RNF364K-ND # Heat shrink tube
NEM, 1, RNF012K-ND # Heat shrink tube
NEM, 5, A100204-ND # 8 pins DIP socket

362,89 Euros, delta = 25.11 Euros

JB, 5, 568-1416-5-ND #demux, active high output
JB, 5, 296-1600-5-ND #ShiftRegisters
JB, 20, 751-1129-ND #LEDs
JB, 20, 751-1114-ND #LEDs
JB, 20, 751-1153-ND #LEDs
JB, 10, A32870-ND #16 pins DIP socket
JB, 1, 438-1022-ND #prototype board
JB, 1, 299/1 SV005-ND #non insulated wire

443,24 Euros, delta = 80.35 Euros

ND, to many things, I make the order of my items + the current list on wednesday April 4

Order sent 5th of april @ 00:15

</pre>

User:Sasha

2016-08-20T01:52:28Z

Sasha:

I'm a tinkerer, a hacker and a maker. I have worked on the following projets:

* [[Laser_cutter|'''Laser Cutter''']] Testing various settings, calibrating and cleaning machine, documentation on how to use, and troubleshooting
* [[Doorbell|'''Doorbell''']] A virtual doorbell that allows people without a card to access the space easily, by alerting people already in the space using audio, visual and push notifications
* [[Control|'''Control''']] Created a hub for controlling things (primarily LEDs) and reading sensor data
* [[Sticker_printer|'''Sticker printer''']] Thermal printer that prints nice stickers like QR codes and other useful things
* [[Projector_client|'''Projector client''']] A Raspberry Pi that allows anyone from a Mac/Linux/Windows computer, or an Android/iOS device, to share audio/video/screen wirelessly to a projector and a TV
* [[LED_Retrofit|'''LED Retrofit''']] Control LEDs and relays from a web interface, with additional Internet of Things applications in development (wiki page is outdated)
* [[Hackerspaces_ch|'''Hackerspaces.ch''']] Website intended to be a 'hub' for hackerspaces in Switzerland, with a dynamically updating map
* [[Ultimaker|'''Ultimaker''']] Main 3D printer at fixme (I mostly worked on polishing up the documentation and helping new comers out to understand it)

Other projects that haven't been worked on much:
* [[Vending_Machine|'''Vending machine''']] Interface for the fridge that allows to keep inventory data and accept non-cash payments ''-> next project I'm going to work on''
* [[Geocache_PirateBox|'''Geocache Piratebox''']] Create a [https://geocaching.com geocache] with an integrated [http://piratebox.cc/ piratebox]
* [[Permission_Stickers|'''Permission Stickers''']] Sticker for identifying things at the hs, print with thermal printer
* [[HS_Video_Tour|'''HS video tour''']] Tour of the HS on video - more or less done so in unlisted video [http://youtu.be/pW8l4VZCw0Q here]
* [[Repair_Cafe|'''Repair Café''']] Wanted/want to create a recurring repair café event at fixme
* [[Screens|'''Screens''']] Page with a list of screens and what they do
* [[Mesh_networking|'''Mesh networking''']] Explore mesh networking at the hackerspace
* [[RaspberryPi2|'''Raspberry Pi workshop''']] Organise a second RPi workshop event
* [[DIY_Blink1|'''Diy Blink1''']] Diy Blink1
* [[GIMP_%2B_Photoshop_Workshop|'''GIMP/PS Workshop''']] Tried to organise a gimp/photoshop workshop but there was little interest at the time

 

https://i.imgur.com/5AM3Kyul.jpg

Old makerspace laser cutter

2016-08-06T23:46:52Z

Sasha: Sasha moved page Laser cutter to Old makerspace laser cutter: Depreciated since it was sold to 3rd party

== Usage ==
::'''''Step 0''' - Turn on the laser cutter if you plan to use it, as it takes 5 minutes to warm up. Turn it on using the red and green buttons simultaneously on the right hand side.''
# '''Prepare your file to cut or engrave'''. You'll need a .dxf file with all the paths stroked at 0.25px, with each different color of the paths representing different cut/engrave parameters. You can find such files by searching on [https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=laser+cut&sa= Thingiverse] and other related sites, or creating your own with software such as [[#Inkscape|Inkscape]], [[#Illustrator|Illustrator]], [[#Inventor|Inventor]], or many others. Unfortunately many of the files you find online are in .ai, .pdf or .svg, you'll need to open them in one of these apps and export them to .dxf.
# '''Open the file in Laserworks'''. On the machine next to the laser cutter, plug in your USB key, and then import the .dxf via File > Import (ctr + i). If Laserworks says that it did not find any data, it means that you did not format your file correctly, or you used an incompatible file type. If you used illustrator, it may be due to having sublayers, which laserworks doesn't see.
# '''Scale and arrange your paths'''. Once you have imported your .dxf, the paths in the file will be shown in Laserworks. You can either select all of the paths, or select just one of them, and scale using the black arrows on the sides, or by changing the values in the scale toolbar on the top. It is also possible to move your paths by clicking and dragging the pink cross in the middle. You can group your paths using the group button on the top toolbar.
# '''Add or edit paths'''. You can do some basics edits in Laserworks with the toolbar on the left. If you want to cut/engrave your paths with different settings, you can set each paths' parameters by choosing a colour on the bottom toolbar. For example: you want to engrave a design, and cut a circle around it - so you set the design to red, and the circle to black.
# '''Select your engrave/cut parameters'''. On the top of the toolbar on the right, you'll see that each colour has its own parameters, and you can edit each one by double-clicking on it.
## '''Output''' Set to yes in order for your paths to cut/engrave (setting it to no could be useful if you have construction/instructional paths or you have multiple designs in the same file).
## '''Speed'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct speed for cutting.
## '''Blowing'''. Set to yes, this is the internal air compressor that blows out of the mirror head.
## '''Processing mode'''. Set this first as all the following settings will depend on it. ''Cut'' will cut along the paths as a vector, ''scan'' will engrave between the lines of your paths, and ''dot'' will make a dotted outline of your paths.
## '''Power'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct power.
## '''Ramp Effect'''. The exact use for this feature is unknown, however it is suspected that this can be used for stamps. Leave disabled.
## '''Overstriking'''. Sets how bold your scan will be - if left at Un-process, your scan (engraving) will be normal, if set to Intagilo, your scan will be bolder (wider/thicker edges), and if set to Rilievi, it will be lighter. It is best to leave it Un-processed.
## '''Scan mode'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Unilaterism mode will scan/engrave one line at each time the laser head passes, and swing mode will scan/engrave two lines at each pass, going in both directions. Uni mode gives better results but takes twice as long as swing mode. Set x if the paths are wider on the x scale than on the y scale, and choose y for when the paths are longer on the y scale - this optimises laser time.
## '''Interval'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Set the distance between each laser pass. 0.1mm is the minimum distance, and will produce results similar to a printer - but it takes a lot of time. 0.2mm is a good average, you can't really see the space between the passes. You can go up to 0.4mm before it starts to be somewhat visible.
## '''Interval > Advance'''. The cut after sweeping option allows you to make a contour along the edges of what you engraved. This can be useful for making letters clearer for example, however it can also make your job messier (especially if there are lots of small details). You can set the settings for this just like you would for a normal cut, however you can lower the power down to as little as 5.7% for a very light outline.
# '''Place your material into the laser cutter'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] below for a list of materials that you can use. It is recommended that you align your material as close to the upper left corner as possible, as that is where the laser is strongest.
# '''Make sure that the material is flat.''' Your cut/engrave will be of a lower quality if there is up to 0.5mm height difference, and your material may damage the laser machine if there is a 0.8mm or more height difference! Use yellow painting tape to stick it to the edges, or pick a different piece of your material if there is too much height difference.
# '''Align the mirror head.''' Laserworks cuts from the green square, so make sure that you align the mirror head to the top right side of your design on the material you're cutting, with the four blue arrow buttons on the laser machine. Measure out the total distance of your design (in laserworks, ctrl + a, then see the width and height in mm), and make sure that it doesn't go outside of your material and especially not outside of the cutting bed! You can use the 'Go scale' button to show you the outer dimensions of your cut without cutting on the laser machine.
# '''Align the height'''. There is an auto-focus feature on the laser, however unfortunately it is not currently functional due to a broken piece. Please see someone who knows how to use the laser to find out how to align the height correctly.
# '''Make a final check of everything'''. Make sure that there are no obstructions inside the laser machine, make sure that you've set all the correct cutting speeds and powers, and make sure that your cut/scan does not go outside of the borders of the cutting bed. If you want a preview of what the laser will do, select everything in Laserworks, and click the preview button on the top toolbar.
# '''Turn on the ventilation and close lid'''. Turn on the extraction fan by turning on the black powerstrip under the laser machine. Close the lid and put on your safety glasses.
# '''Start your cut/engrave!'''. After making sure that everything is good (and that you have the proper authorizations to use the laser machine), select everything you want to cut (ctrl + a), and press the 'Start' button in LaserWorks!
# '''Monitor the machine'''. Whilst the machine is working, you ''have'' to be nearby watching what it's doing!! If the material that you're cutting starts burning, immediately stop the cut, move the mirror head out of the way, and extinguish the fire with the fire blanket nearby (water will damage the machine). The renens fablab had their laser machine partially destroyed because someone went out to smoke whilst letting the laser cutter working - so pay attention!.
# '''After the machine has finished.''' When the job is finished, you will hear the laser beep three times, and you'll see the time on the small laser machine screen stop going up. Wait 30 seconds for the fumes to get extracted, and then proceed to open the lid. Make sure to remove all of the material from the machine - put the larger scraps on the shelves next to the machine for others to use, and throw away the smaller ones into the correct recycling bin. Remove any tape that remains, and move the mirror head to the top right side of the machine. Turn if off after leaving it to cool down for a few minutes (unless you're going to use it later in the day - it is best to leave it on in that case).
# '''Finish your pieces.''' Clean your completed pieces with compressed air (will get rid of all the carbon and dust accumulated), remove and protective tape, and optionally clean it with alcohol to remove any sediment (works great on both acrylic and wood).
# '''Leave the laser machine space as you found it.''' Remove your usb key, put all the things you used back into their places, and make sure that the place around the laser cutter is generally clean.
 
* Always cut with lid closed
* Always wear safety goggles
* Do not leave the laser cutter cutting without supervision
* Always cut with the ventilation system on (black power strip under laser cutter)
* Only use materials that are laser safe - see list below (TL;DR: never use PVC, don't cut metal)
* Be careful whilst using the control panel or the software to not start the laser by accident
** Be careful of the Pulse and Start-Pause buttons on laser cutter
** Be careful of the Start button on laser cutter software (particularly when resuming from standby..)

''This section is work in progress''

== Design software ==
=== Inkscape ===
# Make sure object is vector (if you import a svg or make your own drawing, it will be already a vector; however png's and jpg's aren't vectors)
## Select object, then open the Trace Bitmap menu (Path > Trace Bitmap)
## Play with the various single scan options, and click 'update' to see a preview
## Convert the object to a path (Path > Object to Path)
## Set stroke (Object > Fill and Stroke) of object to 0.25px and no fill
## For every different layer you want to cut/engrave on the laser (aka engraved with different power for gradients), you must create a new color of the stroke
# Save as as dxf (you need python-lxml for this part, apt-get install python-lxml or pip install lxml (doesn't work out of the box on mac))

=== Illustrator ===
==== Basic instructions ====
# [https://helpx.adobe.com/illustrator/tutorials.html Getting started with Illustrator]
# Make sure that all the things you want to cut/engrave are paths with a '''0.25mm stroke''' and '''no fill'''
# Place all the paths into the root of a layer - Laserworks does not recognise sublayers, linked files or grouped paths
# Each color you select for your paths will show up as a different settings layer in Laserworks (e.g. black lines can be set to cut, red lines set to engrave). Any layers in Illustrator will be merged.
# File > Export as '''dxf''', use R13/LT95 for the dxf format. Laserworks also supportes .ai files saved as Illustrator 8, but you may loose some editing functionality when saving with this, so be careful.

==== Text ====
# Select your text and remove the fill, then set a stroke of 0.25
# You must expand the text before importing it into Laserworks:
## When saving as dxf, select Outline Text
## Select text, then click Object > Expand. This will not allow you to edit the text afterwards, but works when saving as .ai

==== Bitmaps and images ====
# Drag your image into illustrator, and click on Image Trace (use the arrow on the right to find the best settings, or press the settings button to custom set the settings)
# Click the expand button

==== Outlines of shapes ====
[http://stickerobot.com/blog/die-cut-stickers/sticker-tutorial-making-die-cut-shapes-in-adobe-illustrator/ Sticker tutorial] but also applicable to laser cutting

=== Rhino ===
Used by Swisskoo and marc

=== Blender ===
Used by [[User:oenvoyage]]
# work with 2D bezier curves and add some extrusion (typically the width of your wood) while modeling your plates
# enable the Export Autocad DXF exporter Addon (File->User Preferences-> AddOn-> search DXF)
# before exporting: reduce the extrusion to 0, switch back your curves to 3D mode (Data panel-> shape-> 3D)
# Convert your bezier curves to Mesh (Alt-C)
# File -> Export -> Autocad (.dxf)
Somehow the DXF exported directly is not recognized by LaserWork, so you have to open it in Illustrator and save again as .dxf and make sure it's R13/LT95 format

=== Autodesk Inventor ===
Used by Swisskoo and [[User:Nemen]]

==== Export to .dxf ====

# Right-click on the face of your part you want to export.
# Choose "Export face as"
# Type the filename and click on Save

== Laser software ==
The laser cutter is controlled by [https://foo.fixme.ch/laser/RDCAMSetup5.0.27.exe RDCam] (version 5.2.06 installed on Atelier computer, other versions available on foo), it's manual is here [[File:Rdcam_manual.pdf]]. When installing, you have to install it in 'demo mode', otherwise Laserworks won't open without a cutter connected (also don't forget to select english ;).

[[File:Laserworks-setup.png|300px]]

RDCam would not install in crossover (gui for wine), but feel free to try. Please note that .rld files created in different versions of the software are not inter-compatible unfortunately. [http://stefan.schuermans.info/rdcam/ This guy] started reverse engineering the (scrambled) communications and .rld protocols, he has also managed to get it to work on wine.

[[File:Rdcam manual.pdf]]

== Materials ==
=== Wood ===
4mm wood - 28-45mm/s @ 100% for cutting, depending on location on laser bed. 35 is a good average. Engraving is good at 500mm/s, you can engrave from 6% to 30-50-60% ish - this needs to be further clarified. 15-20% with a 0.2 interval gives a good clean result.

6mm wood - 20-30mm/s

=== Cardboard ===
40mm/s

=== Paper ===
No testing done yet

=== Acrylic ===
8-20mm/s, engraving at 20% 500mm/s

=== Rubber ===
# Focus laser at 6mm higher than usual (use two pieces of 3mm plexi)
# Engrave at 200mm/s, 20% and 0.2 unilat
# Do 6 passes total, changing the unilaterism between x and y for an even surface
# Clean surface with compressed air to remove the rubber dust between passes
# Stick rubber cut part onto a support material for when you want to make a stamp

Marc has bought A4 sheets at 57 CHF sheet, however [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] you can get them for 20$ per single sheet, or for 7$ [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] if you buy in lots of 5.

=== Mylar/thin plastic ===
[http://juanjchong.com/2014/cutting-mylar-solder-stencils-from-expresspcb-and-eaglecad-files/ This] might be an interesting technique to try for thin plastics, such as those used for PCB stencils. The idea is that you have two layers of the material that you cut at the same time, the top one will be scrapped after, but the bottom one should be good - need to try this technique.

=== Others ===
There still needs to be extensive testing done to see which materials work and which don't, but basically the gist of it is: don't use anything that has PVC in it, and don't use metal (unless for engraving -> need to explore options). There have been some tests with rubber (for stamps) as well, this needs to be properly documented and more testing needs to be done.

[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]

=== NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS ===

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|}

List from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX hackerspace]'s wiki

[[File:Never_cut_list.pdf]]

== Hardware ==
According to cononelmoutarde (Marc/Workshop Ninja), the laser cutter is a [http://en.keylandlaser.com/show.asp?id=181 Keyland Laser 1060].

Search terms: Ebay 100w laser or just 100w laser - it's a generic design (3500~4000 usd for laser cutter with/without shipping depending on source, ~1000 usd for laser tube with shipping). RD-ACS [http://rdacs.en.alibaba.com/product/1560634708-220105172/laser_machine_control_card.html controller] (generic controller so used in lots of laser cutters).

[[File:Laser_front.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_top.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_control_panel.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_cutter_tube.jpg|500px]]

== Photos ==
'''Wood'''

[[File:Fixme wooden tags by QR code printer.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_flexible_living_corners.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_engraving_tests.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_donut.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_giant_qr_code.jpg|246px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_the_world!.JPG|555px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_wooden_art.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_QR_code_tokens.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_10mm_wood.jpg|500px]]

'''Cardboard'''

[[File:Laser_cutting_rpi_case.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_cardboard_Raspberry_Pi_case.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_cardboard_Fixme_logo.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_motivational_sign.jpg|500px]]

'''Acrylic'''

[[File:Alexis_Roussel_holding_BTC_logo_cut_at_Fixme.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_acrylic_fixme_logo.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_fixme_logo_in_keychain.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser cutter early acrylic test.jpg|500px]]

'''Rubber'''

[[File:FIXME_laser_cut_rubber_stamp.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Rubber_stamp_closeup_after_engraving_whilst_still_in_sheet.jpg|500px]]

'''Others'''

[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]

Laser cutter

2016-08-06T23:46:52Z

Sasha: Sasha moved page Laser cutter to Old makerspace laser cutter: Depreciated since it was sold to 3rd party

#REDIRECT [[Old makerspace laser cutter]]

Local

2016-06-02T16:50:59Z

Sasha: Created page with "Information regarding various locations that FIXME has been within, is currently in, or will be in the future. '''Current local''': Univercité, Ch. du Closel 5, 1020 Renens..."

Information regarding various locations that FIXME has been within, is currently in, or will be in the future.

'''Current local''': Univercité, Ch. du Closel 5, 1020 Renens

== Local 2: IRL+ ==
Currently waiting on renovations from Publiaz, no further information.

[[File:Fixme-2-local-overview.gif]]

== Local 1: Univercité ==
In the process of moving out to Local 2

[[File:Fixme-local-1.gif]]

== Local 0: Rue de Geneve ==
Moved out in October 2014

File:Fixme-2-local-overview.gif

2016-06-02T16:50:14Z

Sasha: Pan of local 2

Pan of local 2

File:Fixme-local-1.gif

2016-06-02T16:38:41Z

Sasha: Hyperlapse of univercité space and fixme 1

Hyperlapse of univercité space and fixme 1

OpenData

2016-04-18T09:19:01Z

Sasha: Added opendata.swiss

__NOTOC__
Open data resource
* https://opendata.swiss/ 744 Swiss data sets

== Gourvernance ==
* https://opendata.swiss/en/ Swiss Gov
* http://www.data.gov/ US Gov
* http://www.data.gouv.fr/ French Gov
* Russian Gov
** http://data.gov.ru/opendata
** http://api.duma.gov.ru/ Parliament
** http://mvd.ru/opendata/
* http://www.socrata.com/resources/
* http://www.census.gov/

=== Local ===
* https://data.sfgov.org/ San Francisco
* Russia
** http://data.gov.spb.ru/ (St. Petersburg)
** http://data.mos.ru/ (Moscow)
** http://data.ulgov.ru/ (Ulyanovsk Region)
** http://opendata71.ru/ (Tula Region)
** http://opendata.permkrai.ru/opendata/ (Perm Region)
** http://krd.ru/opendata/ (Krasnodar region)

== Transport ==
* http://www.tpg.ch/web/open-data/ Geneva public transportation
* http://transport.opendata.ch/ Independant swiss transport data
* http://prix-carburants.gouv.fr/rubrique/opendata/ French fuel price

== Environment ==
* http://www.wunderground.com/weather/api/

== Social ==
* TODO

== Other ==
* http://data.unhcr.org/wiki/index.php/API_Documentation
* http://www.theguardian.com/news/datablog
* http://opendata.cern.ch/
* http://data.nasa.gov/
* https://market.mashape.com/explore
* https://api-developer.swisscom.com

== Hackathon ==
* http://fr.opendata.ch/dates/
* http://www.hackathon.spb.ru/

InsomniHack-2016

2016-03-13T21:38:25Z

Sasha: Added moi

[[Category:CTF]]
[[Category:Conferences]]
== Information ==
* http://insomnihack.ch/
* '''Lieu:''' Palexpo Genève
* '''Dates:''' 17-19 mars 2015
** '''CTF:''' Vendredi 18 mars de 18h à 4h
** '''Conferences:''' Vendredi 18 mars
** '''Workshops:''' Jeudi 17 mars

== CTF teams ==
* Team size limit : 8 people
* Registration [https://www.eventbrite.fr/e/insomnihack-2016-workshop-conferences-contest-registration-19112613341 here]

=== FIXME ===
*Participants: Rorist, crazygolem, Anaël, BinaryBrain, Fzn, Francois, Noskill, Sasha
* Room left for 2 ppl

== See Also ==
* [[InsomniHack-2012]]
* [[InsomniHack-2013]]
* [[InsomniHack-2014]]
* [[InsomniHack-2015]]

Bitcoin ATM

2016-02-10T22:05:07Z

Sasha: Created page with "There is a Bitcoin ATM from [http://bity.com Bity] at FIXME! More info [https://www.facebook.com/96well/posts/10153856932577856 here]. It is the ATM with the lowest fees (2%..."

There is a Bitcoin ATM from [http://bity.com Bity] at FIXME! More info [https://www.facebook.com/96well/posts/10153856932577856 here].

It is the ATM with the lowest fees (2% instead of 5%) in Switzerland.

[[File:Bitcoin_ATM.jpg]]

File:Bitcoin ATM.jpg

2016-02-10T22:04:33Z

Sasha:

Sticker printer

2016-02-04T10:27:53Z

Sasha: Added file generation and printing methods

Print all the things!

Using the thermal sticker printer (located on the shelf with the coffee machine next to the fridge), you can print all sorts of fun things, notably QR codes (with links to stuff, text, phone numbers, btc addresses,...). The printer is a [http://support.brother.com/g/b/producttop.aspx?c=gb&lang=en&prod=lpql700euk Brother QL-700], a 300dpi b/w thermal (no ink) sticker/label printer that is connected via the Pi used for the [[doorbell]].

== Features ==
=== QR codes ===
Printing QR codes is quite easy, all you need to do is to go to the URL that's on the sticker on the printer, and you can print directly URLs or text. For vcards, btc addresses, and other 'fancy' QR codes, you will need to write in the syntax yourself (e.g. <code>bitcoin:161s5cgPRMvyVNaCu3zcgXxVeKpUTXGIOU</code>). After you click the print button, make sure that the printer is on, then expect to wait 8~15 seconds for the QR code to generate, spool, and print. The auto-cut functionality is disabled (otherwise all the stickers would fall into the void), so you need to push the cut button to get the sticker from the printer. You are encouraged to use these stickers responsibly (for example, shalf doesn't like when a qr code with 'penis' is stuck on his macbook charger).

The interface is written in html + php + bash (meh), and currently fetches the QR codes from Google's depreciated QR code generating [https://chart.googleapis.com/chart?cht=qr&chs=300x300&chl=text service]. It then spools it with <code>lp</code>, which prints it over CUPS. As soon as I can figure out how to print properly formatted pages with js in them, the service will likely be migrated locally, possibly even using things like [http://bitcoinqrcode.org/ this] for bitcoins. Other future feature ideas include: detailed print status, advanced QR code generation (vcard, sms, geolocation, calendar, wifi,...), QR code settings, or even your suggestions.

=== Text ===
Prints in a monospaced font, 24 columns, no margins. A bit ugly, but there isn't an easy way to change the print settings. What I'm trying to do right now is to figure out how to print a properly formatted page, and if that's possible, then printing text or other fancy elements would be easier.

Take [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hr42JjCRM-0 snapshots of pages] using [http://phantomjs.org/ phantomjs] - this allows you to take care of formatting with css and html instead of magic

=== Images ===
Supports printing images, but this feature is deactivated currently due to security considerations. Although it appears to print in greyscale, this scale isn't too large - so low contrast/dark pictures won't print well. Lots of fun things can be done with images:
<gallery>
File:Sticker_tests.jpg
File:Sticking_stickers_to_Macbook.jpg
File:Sticker_of_stickers.jpg
File:Yes_thermal.jpg
File:Sticker_revenge.jpg
</gallery>

=== Bitcoin wallets ===
In development. Uses electrum to generate new wallets, and then generates QR codes for the public and the private keys. If there is no activity with the wallet after 6 months, the bitcoins will be taken back to avoid loss.

=== Post stamps ===
Buy post stamps via webstamp with bitcoins and then print them out.

[[File:Bitcoin_stamp.png|300px]][[File:Fixme_stamp.png|300px]]

== Printing methods ==
=== Serial print ===
Prints PNG files *instantly*. Can print various formats of labels, but has very strict sizing limits (printer crashes and must be physically powered off) which require image pre-processing. Uses (ql570)[https://github.com/sudomesh/ql570] library. You must have write permissions to the right /dev/usb or something like that.

=== CUPS print ===
Prints anything, but is a pain to set up and insecure. Also takes quite a long time to spool the file (5-10 seconds), can be a bit confusing to orient/scale document correctly.

== File generation methods ==
=== Phantomjs ===
Works great and reduces hassle of generating images (you just take a screenshot of any page), however takes ~4 seconds to launch browser. Screenshotting and all other things take less than a second. Potential solutions:
* Generate all pngs on first run or have a button to generate them
* Keep phantomjs running and pass it items (can this be done?)
* Upgrade to RPi2

=== QRencode + PIL ===
Works but takes ~5 seconds, closer to ~8s on cold run. PIL takes the longest to resize the image. A solution could be to figure out which pixel size to define for qrencode.

=== Google Chart API ===
Took ~20 seconds in total with CUPS printing and the requests. Also loss of privacy.

=== Client side generation (future) ===
Generate the image in client's browser and POST it to the printer. Haven't tried it yet.

== Resources ==
wget http://download.brother.com/welcome/dlfp002192/ql700lpr-1.0.1-1.i386.deb
sudo dpkg -i --force-all ql700lpr-1.0.1-1.i386.deb
sudo apt-get install cups
sudo usermod -a -G lpadmin pi
sudo nano /etc/cups/cupsd.conf // I don't actually remember what I did here
sudo service cups restart

Then print with <code>lp -d Brother_QL-700 file.jpg</code>. Use <code>-o media=Custom.62x13mm</code> for custom size (theoretically unlimited length, but do note that the roll costs ~18 chf).

Challenge: disable standby/find a way to wake form standby

http://download.brother.com/welcome/docp000675/ql700_ukeng_usr_b.pdf

IOT Hackathon

2016-01-27T11:30:43Z

Sasha: /* Projects */ Updated project list

[[File:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-lowres.png|500px]]

FIXME's first IoT weekend hackathon will be held on January 22-24 2015.

If you know of any '''sponsors''' or '''partners''' who may be interested in helping us out, please contact sasha (at) fixme (dot) ch.

== Description ==
* http://iot-weekend.com/

'''English''' 
This winter, come join us at FIXME for a fun weekend full of hacking and exploring everything that is IoT. It seems that the Internet of Things is the latest new buzzword that's exploding in the mainstream media. However, as hackers, we've already been tinkering for a number of years with connected devices, LEDs, sensors, wireless modules, and "big data". We are at the forefront of many new technologies, and we have the power to decide how the future will look like. Come join fellow hackers from the local community for a wonderful weekend hackathon focusing on playing with everything from laser cutters to temperature sensors, Bluetooth modules and Raspberry Pi's. Build a wireless blinking light or build a connected rocket ship - there are no restrictions on where your imagination can take you!

'''Francais'''
 Cet hiver, FIXME organise un weekend rempli de hacking en exploration par rapport aux "Internet des Objets". Il semble que ces jours-ci l'IoT soit le dernier buzzwork qui explose dans les médias. Par contre, étant hackeurs nous avons déjà passé des années en jouant avec des trucs connectés, des LEDs, des capteurs, des modules sans fil ou le "big data". Nous sommes dans les premières lignes avec pleins ds nouvelles technologies et on a le pouvoir de d'influencer notre futur. Venez nombreux rejoindre les hackeurs de notre communauté pour un weekend merveilleux, où nous allons jouer avec des découpeurs laser et des sondes de temperature, des modules blueooth,sur des Raspberry Pi's, et bien plus. Construit une LED clignotante sans fil, ou construit une fusée connectée - il n'y a pas de restrictions jusqu'où ton imagination peut t'ammener !

=== Details ===
'''Dates:''' 23-24 January 2015

'''Location:''' FIXME Hackerspace, Ch. de Closel 5, Renens

'''Price:''' still unset, we are trying to make this event free for everyone, but it depends on our sponsors

'''Food:''' status unknown

== Schedule ==
The schedule is still being planned and not final.

=== Friday ===
'''17:00''' - Doors open and registration begins

'''18:00''' - Opening ceremony (Introduction, Keynote and Hackathon overview)

'''19:30''' - Dinner and team up

'''21:00''' - Hackathon starts!

=== Saturday ===
'''08:00''' - Breakfast

'''12:00''' - Lunch

'''17:00''' - Talk 1

'''18:00''' - Talk 2

'''19:00''' - Talk 3

'''20:00''' - Dinner

=== Sunday ===
'''08:00''' - Breakfast

'''09:30''' - Submission deadline

'''9:30-10:30''' - Judges will evaluate the projects

'''10:30''' - Award and closing ceremony

'''12:00''' - End of event

== Organisation ==
=== Deadlines ===
'''1st December''' - Settle on a date - DONE

'''10th December''' - Send letters to sponsors

=== Participants ===
[[User: Sasha]] - event coordinator

=== Speakers ===
* Paul Bristow - The unexpected consequences of IoT
* ...

=== Sponsors ===
Official sponsors:
* IBM
* Swisscom
* Microsoft
* EPFL Innovation Park
* CTI
* Mobilet
* Nebuleuse
* Impact Hub Geneva
* UniverCité

Potential sponsors to contact:
* Zigobot
* Intel
* Microsoft
* Swisscom
* IBM
* Digi, SierraWireless, Sigfox request for loan modules
* LoRa, Ask me, I have a contact at Semtech SaRl Neuchatel, but I do not know if the LoRa technology is already available at Lausanne
* Adeunis-rf, ask me too
* ''Your suggestions here''

== Projects ==
* '''Nemen''' - Aquarium monitor with Raspberry Pi
* '''BinaryBrain + Kirill''' - Totem that shows tweets
* '''Radu + Christina + Theodore''' - A central hub for sensors
* '''Eduardo + Miro''' - Snackly helps you develop healthier eating habits
* '''Billy + Frédérique + Gillian''' - Connected physical mailbox which emails you when you get a letter or parcel
* '''Dinesh + Alex''' - Connected cloud based strawberry picker robot
* '''Ansgar + Michael''' - Emotional furby that talks and shows emotions based on tweet s
* '''Manuel''' - Twitter BB8 robot controller
* '''Damian''' - Swimming pool spot and ambient temperature monitor with Bluetooth LE
* '''Radovan''' - Monitoring system for Nébuleuse brewery's sensors

== Resources ==
=== Media ===
PDF poster: [[File:IoT Poster.pdf]]

Background graphic highres: [[media:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-highres.png]] lowres: [[media:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-lowres.png]]

'''Originals'''

Master PSD of poster: [[File:IoT Poster.psd]]

Original background graphic: [[File:IoT background.psd]]

=== Links ===
Holidays in Vaud [http://www.vd.ch/themes/formation/jours-feries-et-vacances-scolaires/2015/ 2015] and [http://www.vd.ch/themes/formation/jours-feries-et-vacances-scolaires/2016/ 2016]

[https://hackathon.guide/ Hackathon guide]

[http://www.hackzurich.com/ HackZurich] - Europe's biggest and best organised hackathon

== See also ==
Here are some previous events that FIXME organised or participated in:

[[Mitch Altman soldering workshop]]

[[ElectroJam1|ElectroJam]]

[[Leman make]]

[[Cryptoparty2|Cryptoparty]]

[[5th Anniversary]]

IOT Hackathon

2016-01-05T16:35:16Z

Sasha: /* Description */ Added french text

[[File:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-lowres.png|500px]]

FIXME's first IoT weekend hackathon will be held on January 22-24 2015.

If you know of any '''sponsors''' or '''partners''' who may be interested in helping us out, please contact sasha (at) fixme (dot) ch.

== Description ==
'''English''' 
This winter, come join us at FIXME for a fun weekend full of hacking and exploring everything that is IoT. It seems that the Internet of Things is the latest new buzzword that's exploding in the mainstream media. However, as hackers, we've already been tinkering for a number of years with connected devices, LEDs, sensors, wireless modules, and "big data". We are at the forefront of many new technologies, and we have the power to decide how the future will look like. Come join fellow hackers from the local community for a wonderful weekend hackathon focusing on playing with everything from laser cutters to temperature sensors, Bluetooth modules and Raspberry Pi's. Build a wireless blinking light or build a connected rocket ship - there are no restrictions on where your imagination can take you!

'''Francais'''
 Cet hiver, FIXME organise un weekend rempli de hacking en exploration par rapport aux "Internet des Objets". Il semble que ces jours-ci l'IoT soit le dernier buzzwork qui explose dans les médias. Par contre, étant hackeurs nous avons déjà passé des années en jouant avec des trucs connectés, des LEDs, des capteurs, des modules sans fil ou le "big data". Nous sommes dans les premières lignes avec pleins ds nouvelles technologies et on a le pouvoir de d'influencer notre futur. Venez nombreux rejoindre les hackeurs de notre communauté pour un weekend merveilleux, où nous allons jouer avec des découpeurs laser et des sondes de temperature, des modules blueooth,sur des Raspberry Pi's, et bien plus. Construit une LED clignotante sans fil, ou construit une fusée connectée - il n'y a pas de restrictions jusqu'où ton imagination peut t'ammener !

=== Details ===
'''Dates:''' 23-24 January 2015

'''Location:''' FIXME Hackerspace, Ch. de Closel 5, Renens

'''Price:''' still unset, we are trying to make this event free for everyone, but it depends on our sponsors

'''Food:''' status unknown

== Schedule ==
The schedule is still being planned and not final.

=== Friday ===
'''17:00''' - Doors open and registration begins

'''18:00''' - Opening ceremony (Introduction, Keynote and Hackathon overview)

'''19:30''' - Dinner and team up

'''21:00''' - Hackathon starts!

=== Saturday ===
'''08:00''' - Breakfast

'''12:00''' - Lunch

'''17:00''' - Talk 1

'''18:00''' - Talk 2

'''19:00''' - Talk 3

'''20:00''' - Dinner

=== Sunday ===
'''08:00''' - Breakfast

'''09:30''' - Submission deadline

'''9:30-10:30''' - Judges will evaluate the projects

'''10:30''' - Award and closing ceremony

'''12:00''' - End of event

== Organisation ==
=== Deadlines ===
'''1st December''' - Settle on a date - DONE

'''10th December''' - Send letters to sponsors

=== Participants ===
[[User: Sasha]] - event coordinator

=== Speakers ===

=== Sponsors ===
Potential sponsors to contact:
* Zigobot
* Intel
* Microsoft
* Swisscom
* IBM
* Digi, SierraWireless, Sigfox request for loan modules
* LoRa, Ask me, I have a contact at Semtech SaRl Neuchatel, but I do not know if the LoRa technology is already available at Lausanne
* Adeunis-rf, ask me too
* ''Your suggestions here''

== Resources ==
=== Media ===
PDF poster: [[File:IoT Poster.pdf]]

Background graphic highres: [[media:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-highres.png]] lowres: [[media:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-lowres.png]]

'''Originals'''

Master PSD of poster: [[File:IoT Poster.psd]]

Original background graphic: [[File:IoT background.psd]]

=== Links ===
Holidays in Vaud [http://www.vd.ch/themes/formation/jours-feries-et-vacances-scolaires/2015/ 2015] and [http://www.vd.ch/themes/formation/jours-feries-et-vacances-scolaires/2016/ 2016]

[https://hackathon.guide/ Hackathon guide]

[http://www.hackzurich.com/ HackZurich] - Europe's biggest and best organised hackathon

== See also ==
Here are some previous events that FIXME organised or participated in:

[[Mitch Altman soldering workshop]]

[[ElectroJam1|ElectroJam]]

[[Leman make]]

[[Cryptoparty2|Cryptoparty]]

[[5th Anniversary]]

IOT Hackathon

2015-12-09T13:28:23Z

Sasha: Updated schedule and organisational tasks

IOT Hackathon

2015-11-24T08:35:10Z

Sasha: Created original page

[[File:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-lowres.png|500px]]

We are still looking for the best date, please [https://framadate.org/A7HGbcop4d9h1axc tell us which ones suit you best].

If you know of any '''sponsors''' or '''partners''' who may be interested in helping us out, please contact sasha (at) fixme (dot) ch.

== Description ==

This winter, come join us at FIXME for a fun weekend full of hacking and exploring everything that is IoT. It seems that the Internet of Things is the latest new buzzword that's exploding in the mainstream media. However, as hackers, we've already been tinkering for a number of years with connected devices, LEDs, sensors, wireless modules, and "big data". We are at the forefront of many new technologies, and we have the power to decide how the future will look like. Come join fellow hackers from the local community for a wonderful weekend hackathon focusing on playing with everything from laser cutters to temperature sensors, Bluetooth modules and Raspberry Pi's. Build a wireless blinking light or build a connected rocket ship - there are no restrictions on where your imagination can take you!

=== Details ===
'''Dates:''' unconfirmed, [https://framadate.org/A7HGbcop4d9h1axc see here]

'''Location:''' FIXME Hackerspace, Ch. de Closel 5, Renens

'''Price:''' still unset, we are trying to make this event free for everyone, but it depends on our sponsors

'''Food:''' status unknown

== Schedule ==
The schedule is still being planned and not final.

=== Saturday ===
'''13:00''' - Doors open and registration begins

'''14:00''' - Introduction to event

'''14:15''' - Keynote talk

'''15:00''' - Second talk

'''15:45''' - Hackathon overview

'''16:00''' - Hackathon starts!

'''19:00''' - Dinner

=== Sunday ===
'''08:00''' - Breakfast

'''09:00''' - Talk 1

'''10:00''' - Talk 2

'''11:00''' - Talk 3

'''12:00''' - Lunch

'''16:00''' - Hackathon end, submission deadline

'''16-17''' - Judges will evaluate the projects

'''17:00''' - Award and closing ceremony

'''18:00''' - End of event

== Organisation ==
=== Deadlines ===
'''1st December''' - Settle on a date

=== Participants ===
[[User: Sasha]] - event coordinator

=== Speakers ===

=== Sponsors ===
Potential sponsors to contact:
* Zigobot
* Intel
* Microsoft
* Swisscom
* IBM
* ''Your suggestions here''

== Resources ==
=== Media ===
PDF poster: [[File:IoT Poster.pdf]]

Background graphic highres: [[media:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-highres.png]] lowres: [[media:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-lowres.png]]

'''Originals'''

Master PSD of poster: [[File:IoT Poster.psd]]

Original background graphic: [[File:IoT background.psd]]

=== Links ===
Holidays in Vaud [http://www.vd.ch/themes/formation/jours-feries-et-vacances-scolaires/2015/ 2015] and [http://www.vd.ch/themes/formation/jours-feries-et-vacances-scolaires/2016/ 2016]

[https://hackathon.guide/ Hackathon guide]

[http://www.hackzurich.com/ HackZurich] - Europe's biggest and best organised hackathon

== See also ==
Here are some previous events that FIXME organised or participated in:

[[Mitch Altman soldering workshop]]

[[ElectroJam1|ElectroJam]]

[[Leman make]]

[[Cryptoparty2|Cryptoparty]]

[[5th Anniversary]]

File:IoT background.psd

2015-11-24T07:41:33Z

Sasha:

File:IoT Poster.pdf

2015-11-24T07:41:09Z

Sasha:

File:IoT Poster.psd

2015-11-24T07:40:50Z

Sasha:

File:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-highres.png

2015-11-24T07:40:18Z

Sasha:

File:IoT-Weekend-Hackathon-lowres.png

2015-11-24T07:40:04Z

Sasha:

Old makerspace laser cutter

2015-11-14T16:59:57Z

Sasha: /* Hardware */ updated laser cutter identification information

LED

2015-11-07T19:56:49Z

Sasha: Created page for LEDs in general, started work on guide for PCA9685

Page about everything that is LED

== Controlling LEDs with RPi ==
=== PCA9685 I2C board ===
[https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-16-channel-servo-driver-with-raspberry-pi/overview Board and guide]

'''Steps to get it to work'''
# Connect VCC to Pi's 3.3v, GND to Ground
# Connect the SCL to pin 05 (GPIO3) SDA to pin 03 (GPIO2)
# sudo apt-get install python-smbus i2c-tools
# Add the following two lines to <code>/etc/modules/</code> with something like sudo nano: <code>i2c-dev</code> <code>i2c-bcm2708</code>
# Add the following lines to <code>/boot/config.txt</code> and reboot: ([https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=675385#p675385 see this for older Pi's]) <code>device_tree=bcm2708-rpi-b-plus.dtb</code> <code>device_tree_param=i2c1=on</code> <code>device_tree_param=spi=on </code>
# Run <code>sudo i2cdetect -y 1</code> and you should see something like this: [[File:Raspberry-I2C-test.png]] If everything was setup correctly, you now should be ready to go
#

File:Raspberry-I2C-test.png

2015-11-07T19:53:58Z

Sasha:

ESP8266

2015-10-26T05:23:14Z

Sasha: Added links and cleaned up page

The ESP8266 WiFi Module is a self contained SOC with integrated TCP/IP protocol stack that can give any microcontroller access to your WiFi network. The ESP8266 is capable of either hosting an application or offloading all Wi-Fi networking functions from another application processor.

[http://hammerproject.com/post/130804023369/iot-intro-sms-me-when-i-leave-my-garage-door-open Example project from a-z for beginners], [http://rancidbacon.com/files/kiwicon8/ESP8266_WiFi_Module_Quick_Start_Guide_v_1.0.4.pdf getting started guide]

[https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-firmware NodeMcu] is a great higher level interface and easier to use than the default one. You can also do this through [https://github.com/micropython/micropython/tree/master/esp8266 Python] and [http://www.esp8266.com/wiki/doku.php?id=loading_firmware other means].

[http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESP8266-Serial-WIFI-Wireless-Transceiver-Module-Send-Receive-LWIP-Support-AP-STA-/171653455849 Currently cheapest eBay listing (2.40 CHF)]. Available under $2 in bulk.

=== Flashing ===
How to talk to your RPi (and wiring) [http://www.extragsm.com/blog/2014/12/03/connect-esp8266-to-raspberry-pi/]

You need get [https://github.com/themadinventor/esptool/ esptool] and wire your Pi like so (if it doesn't work, connect ESP's GPIO2 to it's VCC as well):

[[File:Esp8266-flashing-wiring.png|500px]] [[File:Flashing-esp8266.jpg|500px]]

pi@raspberrypi ~ $ sudo python esptool/esptool.py --port /dev/ttyAMA0 write_flash 0x000000 nodemcu_latest.bin
Connecting...
Erasing flash...
Writing at 0x00062000... (100 %)

Leaving...

=== Uploading code via CLI ===
Although there are tools like ESPlorer and others that require running a GUI on a local (windows) machine, using the CLI is easier. [https://github.com/ArchimedesPi/esp8266-luaupload Luaupload] is a CLI tool that uploads code without having to copy it over line by line via serial. If you want your code to run when booting the ESP8266, it must be called init.lua

sudo pip install click pyserial
git clone https://github.com/ArchimedesPi/esp8266-luaupload.git
cd esp8266-luaupload/
python luaupload.py upload -p /dev/ttyAMA0 -b 9600 ~/path_to_your_init.lua_file

=== Using the GPIOs ===
On the ESP-01 there are only 2 usable GPIOs. Other ESP's have more (ESP-12 has 10 GPIOs for example). You can use them for pwm, i2c, spi, 1-wire, gpio, adc, and uart with nodemcu. Please note that nodemcu maps the GPIO pins differently, refer to this [https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-firmware#gpio-new-table--build-20141219-and-later index].

[[File:ESP8266_led_wiring.png|500px]]

There are quite a few examples of how to use the ESP on the [https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-firmware#start-play nodemcu] page, to be able to control LEDs or relays over wifi, you'll need to [https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-firmware#connect-to-your-ap connect it to wifi], set up a [https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-firmware#with-below-code-you-can-telnet-to-your-esp8266-now telnet server] (hint: load it as a init.lua script), and then [https://github.com/nodemcu/nodemcu-firmware#manipulate-hardware-like-a-arduino manipulate the GPIOs].

=== Resources ===
* [https://hackaday.io/project/5673-esp8266-dash-button ESP8266 Amazon Dash button]
* [http://hackaday.com/2015/03/18/how-to-directly-program-an-inexpensive-esp8266-wifi-module/ How to directly program an inexpensive ESP8266 wifi module]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BYdZ_24yg0 ESP8266 outdoor range test (hint: very far)]

Barcode scanners

2015-08-27T02:45:32Z

Sasha: Created page

A page about the barcode scanners that are at fixme

== Symbol LS2208 ==
Professional grade high speed USB barcode scanner. We have 3 of these scanners at fixme, recovered from IRL. The cables had to be redone, but they are functional. Datasheet: [[File:Symbol_ls2200.pdf]]

[[File:LS2208-pinout.png|500px]]

[http://pinoutsguide.com/PosDevices/symbol_ls2208_pinout.shtml Pinout]

== Netum NT-5800 ==
Ebay wireless USB barcode scanner. We have 1 of these at fixme (belongs to sasha).

[http://www.ebay.com/itm/NETUM-NT-5800-Wireless-Long-Distance-150M-Barcode-Bar-Code-Scanner-/261474081438 Ebay listing] (local backup [[File:Netum_NT_5800.pdf]])

File:Netum NT 5800.pdf

2015-08-27T02:42:58Z

Sasha:

File:Symbol ls2200.pdf

2015-08-27T02:34:38Z

Sasha:

File:LS2208-pinout.png

2015-08-27T00:34:28Z

Sasha:

LED Retrofit

2015-08-25T08:20:42Z

Sasha: Added fixme nurdnodes link

[[Category:Ongoing_Projects]]

{{warning|'''Please note that this page has been depreciated.''' Current control interface is on [http://control.fixme.ch/ control.fixme.ch], documentation [https://fixme.ch/wiki/Control here].}}

== What are LED Strips? ==
The idea with the LED Retrofit is to provide the HS with an effective yet sleek lighting solution, by using color-changeable LED strips which are controllable via the network.

Here is an exhaustive explanation and tutorial from [http://www.ladyada.net/products/rgbledstrip/ laydyada]. In essence, there are 3 SMD (Surface Mount Technology) RGB (Red Green Blue) LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) on a segment with 3 resistors which allow the ~3 v LEDs to be drivven using a 12v power supply. These 'segments' are continuously joined together to form spools 5 meters each. Sometimes you can buy them in smaller bits (1 meter, 50 cm, 1 foot, etc), but sticking to a 5 meter spool is the best.

Currently there are 5x5m of [http://www.ebay.com/itm/5m-SMD-5050-RGB-SMD-LED-Flexible-Strips-300-LEDs-Strip-12V-60-LEDs-Meter-/150960156950?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2325ed3116 5050 RGB LED Strips] @ 60 LEDs/m placed on the ledge just under the ceiling. Each 5 meter segment is individually connected to the Arduino-based controller via repurposed 230v cables. The Arduino is connected to the local network via an ethernet shield, and it controls the LEDs by PWMing a signal to 3 mosfets (1 for each color) which switches the 12vdc from the modded 400w ATX PSU.

== How to control them?==
You can get the code from git:
<pre>
git clone ssh://gitolite@foo.fixme.ch:1337/led-strip.git
</pre>

Or you can use a basic online interface found [http://led.fixme.ch/rgb here] (accessible only via internal network).

== How to compile ? ==
* There is a library problem which need to be adresse, but since then, there's a chroot on foo with the correct settings to compile/upload the code
ssh foo.fixme.ch
sudo su
/root/enter-chroot.sh
cd /root/led-strip/LedStripDriver
make
# Put the USB cable from foo to the leds
make upload
# Remove the USB cable

== Improvements ==
* '''Figure out a way to fix brightness issue''' I think we should feed each 5m segment from multiple sides, or even split it into smaller pieces (it is suspected that the pcb traces aren't thick enough for the current). Maybe use individual power supplies every couple of meters coupled with their own (more basic) control circuitry that get commands from central Arduino? I suspect that there is a significant voltage loss along the connecting cable because of the low voltage and long distance, using 230v AC could help. We could also experiment in raising the voltage as long as it does not bypass the specified wattage, and that no single LED gets more than its designed voltage. Maybe the mosfets are the wrong kind?
* '''Better control options''' maybe a nicer web-interface with more options (See [https://fixme.ch/wiki/LED_Retrofit#Uses Uses] below), as well as an android app.
* '''Moar LED strips''' place LED strips in other places, e.g. to replace the crappy CFL in the middle of the room (maybe use [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-5050-5M-LED-300-SMD-Warm-White-Flexible-non-Waterproof-Light-Strip-12V-Free/465436346.html pure white LED strips] instead of RGB ones), electronics bench, inside fridge, foyer, inside thermibel :) ?

== Uses ==
* Control remotly using a script (netcat)
** Web server running on an Arduino board to control the LEDs: http://leds.fixme.ch/rgb
** Little scripts for the current implementation inside the repository
* Controled by the music (color, intensity)
* Special program: Burger time, etc
* Philips ambilight-like for projected videos
* Time dependent light (i.e. automatically dimming)

= Photos =
<gallery>
File:Beta-LED-Strips-at-HS.JPG|LED Strip above the solder station
File:LED-Strips-from-close-up.mp4|Video of the strip from afar
File:LED-Strips-Up-Close.mp4|Video of the strip from up close
File:LED-night-fixme.png|LEDs strip installed and visible from the outside
File:LED_Retrofit_blue.jpg|Hackerspace LED Retrofit in blue
File:LED-strip-controller-tinkering.jpg|Tinkering with the setup
File:leds-controler.jpg|Housing for the Arduino and power supply
File:Sofa-led.jpg|LEDs above sofa area (24v 3528 240 LED/m strips)
File:Table-led.jpg|Bright LEDs above table area (same as sofa)

File:HS-trigger-and-LED-control.png|Interface for controlling the LEDs and HS status

</gallery>

== Links ==
* [https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/building-large-led-installations Sparkfun's guide to large LED installations]
* [http://nodes.nurdspace.nl/ DMX controlled LEDs], installation/setup [[NurdNodes]]
* [http://www.ladyada.net/products/rgbledstrip/ Laydyada's tutorial and background info]
* [http://wiki.muc.ccc.de/moodlamp_30 CCC's Moodlamp (DE)]
* [http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/19413/why-doesnt-my-5050-led-strip-draw-as-much-power-as-i-expect Why doesn't my 5050 led strip draw as much power as I expect?]
* [http://www.ebay.com/itm/5m-SMD-5050-RGB-SMD-LED-Flexible-Strips-300-LEDs-Strip-12V-60-LEDs-Meter-/150960156950?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2325ed3116 The LED strips that were used]
* [https://tindie.com/shops/ch00ftech/qr-clock-1/ QR LED Clock]

Control
* [http://leds.fixme.ch/rgb Web control interface]
* ssh://gitolite@foo.fixme.ch:1337/led-strip.git Git repo

= Project Leader =
* [[User:Sasha|Sasha]]

== Participants ==
* [[User:Rorist|Rorist]]
* [[User:gcmalloc|gcmalloc]]
* [[User:Francois|Francois]]
* [[User:Freestorm|Freestorm]]

LED Retrofit

2015-08-25T08:18:25Z

Sasha: Undo revision 8092, added links to sparkfun and nurdnodes

[[Category:Ongoing_Projects]]

{{warning|'''Please note that this page has been depreciated.''' Current control interface is on [http://control.fixme.ch/ control.fixme.ch], documentation [https://fixme.ch/wiki/Control here].}}

== What are LED Strips? ==
The idea with the LED Retrofit is to provide the HS with an effective yet sleek lighting solution, by using color-changeable LED strips which are controllable via the network.

Here is an exhaustive explanation and tutorial from [http://www.ladyada.net/products/rgbledstrip/ laydyada]. In essence, there are 3 SMD (Surface Mount Technology) RGB (Red Green Blue) LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) on a segment with 3 resistors which allow the ~3 v LEDs to be drivven using a 12v power supply. These 'segments' are continuously joined together to form spools 5 meters each. Sometimes you can buy them in smaller bits (1 meter, 50 cm, 1 foot, etc), but sticking to a 5 meter spool is the best.

Currently there are 5x5m of [http://www.ebay.com/itm/5m-SMD-5050-RGB-SMD-LED-Flexible-Strips-300-LEDs-Strip-12V-60-LEDs-Meter-/150960156950?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2325ed3116 5050 RGB LED Strips] @ 60 LEDs/m placed on the ledge just under the ceiling. Each 5 meter segment is individually connected to the Arduino-based controller via repurposed 230v cables. The Arduino is connected to the local network via an ethernet shield, and it controls the LEDs by PWMing a signal to 3 mosfets (1 for each color) which switches the 12vdc from the modded 400w ATX PSU.

== How to control them?==
You can get the code from git:
<pre>
git clone ssh://gitolite@foo.fixme.ch:1337/led-strip.git
</pre>

Or you can use a basic online interface found [http://led.fixme.ch/rgb here] (accessible only via internal network).

== How to compile ? ==
* There is a library problem which need to be adresse, but since then, there's a chroot on foo with the correct settings to compile/upload the code
ssh foo.fixme.ch
sudo su
/root/enter-chroot.sh
cd /root/led-strip/LedStripDriver
make
# Put the USB cable from foo to the leds
make upload
# Remove the USB cable

== Improvements ==
* '''Figure out a way to fix brightness issue''' I think we should feed each 5m segment from multiple sides, or even split it into smaller pieces (it is suspected that the pcb traces aren't thick enough for the current). Maybe use individual power supplies every couple of meters coupled with their own (more basic) control circuitry that get commands from central Arduino? I suspect that there is a significant voltage loss along the connecting cable because of the low voltage and long distance, using 230v AC could help. We could also experiment in raising the voltage as long as it does not bypass the specified wattage, and that no single LED gets more than its designed voltage. Maybe the mosfets are the wrong kind?
* '''Better control options''' maybe a nicer web-interface with more options (See [https://fixme.ch/wiki/LED_Retrofit#Uses Uses] below), as well as an android app.
* '''Moar LED strips''' place LED strips in other places, e.g. to replace the crappy CFL in the middle of the room (maybe use [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-5050-5M-LED-300-SMD-Warm-White-Flexible-non-Waterproof-Light-Strip-12V-Free/465436346.html pure white LED strips] instead of RGB ones), electronics bench, inside fridge, foyer, inside thermibel :) ?

== Uses ==
* Control remotly using a script (netcat)
** Web server running on an Arduino board to control the LEDs: http://leds.fixme.ch/rgb
** Little scripts for the current implementation inside the repository
* Controled by the music (color, intensity)
* Special program: Burger time, etc
* Philips ambilight-like for projected videos
* Time dependent light (i.e. automatically dimming)

= Photos =
<gallery>
File:Beta-LED-Strips-at-HS.JPG|LED Strip above the solder station
File:LED-Strips-from-close-up.mp4|Video of the strip from afar
File:LED-Strips-Up-Close.mp4|Video of the strip from up close
File:LED-night-fixme.png|LEDs strip installed and visible from the outside
File:LED_Retrofit_blue.jpg|Hackerspace LED Retrofit in blue
File:LED-strip-controller-tinkering.jpg|Tinkering with the setup
File:leds-controler.jpg|Housing for the Arduino and power supply
File:Sofa-led.jpg|LEDs above sofa area (24v 3528 240 LED/m strips)
File:Table-led.jpg|Bright LEDs above table area (same as sofa)

File:HS-trigger-and-LED-control.png|Interface for controlling the LEDs and HS status

</gallery>

== Links ==
* [https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/building-large-led-installations Sparkfun's guide to large LED installations]
* [http://nodes.nurdspace.nl/ DMX controlled LEDs]
* [http://www.ladyada.net/products/rgbledstrip/ Laydyada's tutorial and background info]
* [http://wiki.muc.ccc.de/moodlamp_30 CCC's Moodlamp (DE)]
* [http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/19413/why-doesnt-my-5050-led-strip-draw-as-much-power-as-i-expect Why doesn't my 5050 led strip draw as much power as I expect?]
* [http://www.ebay.com/itm/5m-SMD-5050-RGB-SMD-LED-Flexible-Strips-300-LEDs-Strip-12V-60-LEDs-Meter-/150960156950?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2325ed3116 The LED strips that were used]
* [https://tindie.com/shops/ch00ftech/qr-clock-1/ QR LED Clock]

Control
* [http://leds.fixme.ch/rgb Web control interface]
* ssh://gitolite@foo.fixme.ch:1337/led-strip.git Git repo

= Project Leader =
* [[User:Sasha|Sasha]]

== Participants ==
* [[User:Rorist|Rorist]]
* [[User:gcmalloc|gcmalloc]]
* [[User:Francois|Francois]]
* [[User:Freestorm|Freestorm]]

Old makerspace laser cutter

2015-08-25T07:58:09Z

Sasha: /* NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS */ added pdf link

== Usage ==
::'''''Step 0''' - Turn on the laser cutter if you plan to use it, as it takes 5 minutes to warm up. Turn it on using the red and green buttons simultaneously on the right hand side.''
# '''Prepare your file to cut or engrave'''. You'll need a .dxf file with all the paths stroked at 0.25px, with each different color of the paths representing different cut/engrave parameters. You can find such files by searching on [https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=laser+cut&sa= Thingiverse] and other related sites, or creating your own with software such as [[#Inkscape|Inkscape]], [[#Illustrator|Illustrator]], [[#Inventor|Inventor]], or many others. Unfortunately many of the files you find online are in .ai, .pdf or .svg, you'll need to open them in one of these apps and export them to .dxf.
# '''Open the file in Laserworks'''. On the machine next to the laser cutter, plug in your USB key, and then import the .dxf via File > Import (ctr + i). If Laserworks says that it did not find any data, it means that you did not format your file correctly, or you used an incompatible file type. If you used illustrator, it may be due to having sublayers, which laserworks doesn't see.
# '''Scale and arrange your paths'''. Once you have imported your .dxf, the paths in the file will be shown in Laserworks. You can either select all of the paths, or select just one of them, and scale using the black arrows on the sides, or by changing the values in the scale toolbar on the top. It is also possible to move your paths by clicking and dragging the pink cross in the middle. You can group your paths using the group button on the top toolbar.
# '''Add or edit paths'''. You can do some basics edits in Laserworks with the toolbar on the left. If you want to cut/engrave your paths with different settings, you can set each paths' parameters by choosing a colour on the bottom toolbar. For example: you want to engrave a design, and cut a circle around it - so you set the design to red, and the circle to black.
# '''Select your engrave/cut parameters'''. On the top of the toolbar on the right, you'll see that each colour has its own parameters, and you can edit each one by double-clicking on it.
## '''Output''' Set to yes in order for your paths to cut/engrave (setting it to no could be useful if you have construction/instructional paths or you have multiple designs in the same file).
## '''Speed'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct speed for cutting.
## '''Blowing'''. Set to yes, this is the internal air compressor that blows out of the mirror head.
## '''Processing mode'''. Set this first as all the following settings will depend on it. ''Cut'' will cut along the paths as a vector, ''scan'' will engrave between the lines of your paths, and ''dot'' will make a dotted outline of your paths.
## '''Power'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct power.
## '''Ramp Effect'''. The exact use for this feature is unknown, however it is suspected that this can be used for stamps. Leave disabled.
## '''Overstriking'''. Sets how bold your scan will be - if left at Un-process, your scan (engraving) will be normal, if set to Intagilo, your scan will be bolder (wider/thicker edges), and if set to Rilievi, it will be lighter. It is best to leave it Un-processed.
## '''Scan mode'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Unilaterism mode will scan/engrave one line at each time the laser head passes, and swing mode will scan/engrave two lines at each pass, going in both directions. Uni mode gives better results but takes twice as long as swing mode. Set x if the paths are wider on the x scale than on the y scale, and choose y for when the paths are longer on the y scale - this optimises laser time.
## '''Interval'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Set the distance between each laser pass. 0.1mm is the minimum distance, and will produce results similar to a printer - but it takes a lot of time. 0.2mm is a good average, you can't really see the space between the passes. You can go up to 0.4mm before it starts to be somewhat visible.
## '''Interval > Advance'''. The cut after sweeping option allows you to make a contour along the edges of what you engraved. This can be useful for making letters clearer for example, however it can also make your job messier (especially if there are lots of small details). You can set the settings for this just like you would for a normal cut, however you can lower the power down to as little as 5.7% for a very light outline.
# '''Place your material into the laser cutter'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] below for a list of materials that you can use. It is recommended that you align your material as close to the upper left corner as possible, as that is where the laser is strongest.
# '''Make sure that the material is flat.''' Your cut/engrave will be of a lower quality if there is up to 0.5mm height difference, and your material may damage the laser machine if there is a 0.8mm or more height difference! Use yellow painting tape to stick it to the edges, or pick a different piece of your material if there is too much height difference.
# '''Align the mirror head.''' Laserworks cuts from the green square, so make sure that you align the mirror head to the top right side of your design on the material you're cutting, with the four blue arrow buttons on the laser machine. Measure out the total distance of your design (in laserworks, ctrl + a, then see the width and height in mm), and make sure that it doesn't go outside of your material and especially not outside of the cutting bed! You can use the 'Go scale' button to show you the outer dimensions of your cut without cutting on the laser machine.
# '''Align the height'''. There is an auto-focus feature on the laser, however unfortunately it is not currently functional due to a broken piece. Please see someone who knows how to use the laser to find out how to align the height correctly.
# '''Make a final check of everything'''. Make sure that there are no obstructions inside the laser machine, make sure that you've set all the correct cutting speeds and powers, and make sure that your cut/scan does not go outside of the borders of the cutting bed. If you want a preview of what the laser will do, select everything in Laserworks, and click the preview button on the top toolbar.
# '''Turn on the ventilation and close lid'''. Turn on the extraction fan by turning on the black powerstrip under the laser machine. Close the lid and put on your safety glasses.
# '''Start your cut/engrave!'''. After making sure that everything is good (and that you have the proper authorizations to use the laser machine), select everything you want to cut (ctrl + a), and press the 'Start' button in LaserWorks!
# '''Monitor the machine'''. Whilst the machine is working, you ''have'' to be nearby watching what it's doing!! If the material that you're cutting starts burning, immediately stop the cut, move the mirror head out of the way, and extinguish the fire with the fire blanket nearby (water will damage the machine). The renens fablab had their laser machine partially destroyed because someone went out to smoke whilst letting the laser cutter working - so pay attention!.
# '''After the machine has finished.''' When the job is finished, you will hear the laser beep three times, and you'll see the time on the small laser machine screen stop going up. Wait 30 seconds for the fumes to get extracted, and then proceed to open the lid. Make sure to remove all of the material from the machine - put the larger scraps on the shelves next to the machine for others to use, and throw away the smaller ones into the correct recycling bin. Remove any tape that remains, and move the mirror head to the top right side of the machine. Turn if off after leaving it to cool down for a few minutes (unless you're going to use it later in the day - it is best to leave it on in that case).
# '''Finish your pieces.''' Clean your completed pieces with compressed air (will get rid of all the carbon and dust accumulated), remove and protective tape, and optionally clean it with alcohol to remove any sediment (works great on both acrylic and wood).
# '''Leave the laser machine space as you found it.''' Remove your usb key, put all the things you used back into their places, and make sure that the place around the laser cutter is generally clean.
 
* Always cut with lid closed
* Always wear safety goggles
* Do not leave the laser cutter cutting without supervision
* Always cut with the ventilation system on (black power strip under laser cutter)
* Only use materials that are laser safe - see list below (TL;DR: never use PVC, don't cut metal)
* Be careful whilst using the control panel or the software to not start the laser by accident
** Be careful of the Pulse and Start-Pause buttons on laser cutter
** Be careful of the Start button on laser cutter software (particularly when resuming from standby..)

''This section is work in progress''

== Design software ==
=== Inkscape ===
# Make sure object is vector (if you import a svg or make your own drawing, it will be already a vector; however png's and jpg's aren't vectors)
## Select object, then open the Trace Bitmap menu (Path > Trace Bitmap)
## Play with the various single scan options, and click 'update' to see a preview
## Convert the object to a path (Path > Object to Path)
## Set stroke (Object > Fill and Stroke) of object to 0.25px and no fill
## For every different layer you want to cut/engrave on the laser (aka engraved with different power for gradients), you must create a new color of the stroke
# Save as as dxf (you need python-lxml for this part, apt-get install python-lxml or pip install lxml (doesn't work out of the box on mac))

=== Illustrator ===
==== Basic instructions ====
# [https://helpx.adobe.com/illustrator/tutorials.html Getting started with Illustrator]
# Make sure that all the things you want to cut/engrave are paths with a '''0.25mm stroke''' and '''no fill'''
# Place all the paths into the root of a layer - Laserworks does not recognise sublayers, linked files or grouped paths
# Each color you select for your paths will show up as a different settings layer in Laserworks (e.g. black lines can be set to cut, red lines set to engrave). Any layers in Illustrator will be merged.
# File > Export as '''dxf''', use R13/LT95 for the dxf format. Laserworks also supportes .ai files saved as Illustrator 8, but you may loose some editing functionality when saving with this, so be careful.

==== Text ====
# Select your text and remove the fill, then set a stroke of 0.25
# You must expand the text before importing it into Laserworks:
## When saving as dxf, select Outline Text
## Select text, then click Object > Expand. This will not allow you to edit the text afterwards, but works when saving as .ai

==== Bitmaps and images ====
# Drag your image into illustrator, and click on Image Trace (use the arrow on the right to find the best settings, or press the settings button to custom set the settings)
# Click the expand button

==== Outlines of shapes ====
[http://stickerobot.com/blog/die-cut-stickers/sticker-tutorial-making-die-cut-shapes-in-adobe-illustrator/ Sticker tutorial] but also applicable to laser cutting

=== Rhino ===
Used by Swisskoo and marc

=== Blender ===
Used by [[User:oenvoyage]]
# work with 2D bezier curves and add some extrusion (typically the width of your wood) while modeling your plates
# enable the Export Autocad DXF exporter Addon (File->User Preferences-> AddOn-> search DXF)
# before exporting: reduce the extrusion to 0, switch back your curves to 3D mode (Data panel-> shape-> 3D)
# Convert your bezier curves to Mesh (Alt-C)
# File -> Export -> Autocad (.dxf)
Somehow the DXF exported directly is not recognized by LaserWork, so you have to open it in Illustrator and save again as .dxf and make sure it's R13/LT95 format

=== Autodesk Inventor ===
Used by Swisskoo and [[User:Nemen]]

==== Export to .dxf ====

# Right-click on the face of your part you want to export.
# Choose "Export face as"
# Type the filename and click on Save

== Laser software ==
The laser cutter is controlled by [https://foo.fixme.ch/laser/RDCAMSetup5.0.27.exe RDCam] (version 5.2.06 installed on Atelier computer, other versions available on foo), it's manual is here [[File:Rdcam_manual.pdf]]. When installing, you have to install it in 'demo mode', otherwise Laserworks won't open without a cutter connected (also don't forget to select english ;).

[[File:Laserworks-setup.png|300px]]

RDCam would not install in crossover (gui for wine), but feel free to try. Please note that .rld files created in different versions of the software are not inter-compatible unfortunately. [http://stefan.schuermans.info/rdcam/ This guy] started reverse engineering the (scrambled) communications and .rld protocols, he has also managed to get it to work on wine.

[[File:Rdcam manual.pdf]]

== Materials ==
=== Wood ===
4mm wood - 28-45mm/s @ 100% for cutting, depending on location on laser bed. 35 is a good average. Engraving is good at 500mm/s, you can engrave from 6% to 30-50-60% ish - this needs to be further clarified. 15-20% with a 0.2 interval gives a good clean result.

6mm wood - 20-30mm/s

=== Cardboard ===
40mm/s

=== Paper ===
No testing done yet

=== Acrylic ===
8-20mm/s, engraving at 20% 500mm/s

=== Rubber ===
# Focus laser at 6mm higher than usual (use two pieces of 3mm plexi)
# Engrave at 200mm/s, 20% and 0.2 unilat
# Do 6 passes total, changing the unilaterism between x and y for an even surface
# Clean surface with compressed air to remove the rubber dust between passes
# Stick rubber cut part onto a support material for when you want to make a stamp

Marc has bought A4 sheets at 57 CHF sheet, however [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] you can get them for 20$ per single sheet, or for 7$ [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] if you buy in lots of 5.

=== Mylar/thin plastic ===
[http://juanjchong.com/2014/cutting-mylar-solder-stencils-from-expresspcb-and-eaglecad-files/ This] might be an interesting technique to try for thin plastics, such as those used for PCB stencils. The idea is that you have two layers of the material that you cut at the same time, the top one will be scrapped after, but the bottom one should be good - need to try this technique.

=== Others ===
There still needs to be extensive testing done to see which materials work and which don't, but basically the gist of it is: don't use anything that has PVC in it, and don't use metal (unless for engraving -> need to explore options). There have been some tests with rubber (for stamps) as well, this needs to be properly documented and more testing needs to be done.

[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]

=== NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS ===

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|}

List from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX hackerspace]'s wiki

[[File:Never_cut_list.pdf]]

== Hardware ==
Search terms: Ebay 100w laser or just 100w laser - it's a generic design (3500~4000 usd for laser cutter with/without shipping depending on source, ~1000 usd for laser tube with shipping). RD-ACS [http://rdacs.en.alibaba.com/product/1560634708-220105172/laser_machine_control_card.html controller] (generic controller so used in lots of laser cutters).

[[File:Laser_front.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_top.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_control_panel.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_cutter_tube.jpg|500px]]

== Photos ==
'''Wood'''

[[File:Fixme wooden tags by QR code printer.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_flexible_living_corners.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_engraving_tests.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_donut.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_giant_qr_code.jpg|246px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_the_world!.JPG|555px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_wooden_art.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_QR_code_tokens.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_10mm_wood.jpg|500px]]

'''Cardboard'''

[[File:Laser_cutting_rpi_case.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_cardboard_Raspberry_Pi_case.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_cardboard_Fixme_logo.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_motivational_sign.jpg|500px]]

'''Acrylic'''

[[File:Alexis_Roussel_holding_BTC_logo_cut_at_Fixme.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_acrylic_fixme_logo.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_fixme_logo_in_keychain.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser cutter early acrylic test.jpg|500px]]

'''Rubber'''

[[File:FIXME_laser_cut_rubber_stamp.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Rubber_stamp_closeup_after_engraving_whilst_still_in_sheet.jpg|500px]]

'''Others'''

[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]

File:Never cut list.pdf

2015-08-25T07:56:18Z

Sasha:

Old makerspace laser cutter

2015-08-25T07:39:26Z

Sasha: /* Materials */ Added a list of materials to never cut

== Usage ==
::'''''Step 0''' - Turn on the laser cutter if you plan to use it, as it takes 5 minutes to warm up. Turn it on using the red and green buttons simultaneously on the right hand side.''
# '''Prepare your file to cut or engrave'''. You'll need a .dxf file with all the paths stroked at 0.25px, with each different color of the paths representing different cut/engrave parameters. You can find such files by searching on [https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=laser+cut&sa= Thingiverse] and other related sites, or creating your own with software such as [[#Inkscape|Inkscape]], [[#Illustrator|Illustrator]], [[#Inventor|Inventor]], or many others. Unfortunately many of the files you find online are in .ai, .pdf or .svg, you'll need to open them in one of these apps and export them to .dxf.
# '''Open the file in Laserworks'''. On the machine next to the laser cutter, plug in your USB key, and then import the .dxf via File > Import (ctr + i). If Laserworks says that it did not find any data, it means that you did not format your file correctly, or you used an incompatible file type. If you used illustrator, it may be due to having sublayers, which laserworks doesn't see.
# '''Scale and arrange your paths'''. Once you have imported your .dxf, the paths in the file will be shown in Laserworks. You can either select all of the paths, or select just one of them, and scale using the black arrows on the sides, or by changing the values in the scale toolbar on the top. It is also possible to move your paths by clicking and dragging the pink cross in the middle. You can group your paths using the group button on the top toolbar.
# '''Add or edit paths'''. You can do some basics edits in Laserworks with the toolbar on the left. If you want to cut/engrave your paths with different settings, you can set each paths' parameters by choosing a colour on the bottom toolbar. For example: you want to engrave a design, and cut a circle around it - so you set the design to red, and the circle to black.
# '''Select your engrave/cut parameters'''. On the top of the toolbar on the right, you'll see that each colour has its own parameters, and you can edit each one by double-clicking on it.
## '''Output''' Set to yes in order for your paths to cut/engrave (setting it to no could be useful if you have construction/instructional paths or you have multiple designs in the same file).
## '''Speed'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct speed for cutting.
## '''Blowing'''. Set to yes, this is the internal air compressor that blows out of the mirror head.
## '''Processing mode'''. Set this first as all the following settings will depend on it. ''Cut'' will cut along the paths as a vector, ''scan'' will engrave between the lines of your paths, and ''dot'' will make a dotted outline of your paths.
## '''Power'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] section below to select the correct power.
## '''Ramp Effect'''. The exact use for this feature is unknown, however it is suspected that this can be used for stamps. Leave disabled.
## '''Overstriking'''. Sets how bold your scan will be - if left at Un-process, your scan (engraving) will be normal, if set to Intagilo, your scan will be bolder (wider/thicker edges), and if set to Rilievi, it will be lighter. It is best to leave it Un-processed.
## '''Scan mode'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Unilaterism mode will scan/engrave one line at each time the laser head passes, and swing mode will scan/engrave two lines at each pass, going in both directions. Uni mode gives better results but takes twice as long as swing mode. Set x if the paths are wider on the x scale than on the y scale, and choose y for when the paths are longer on the y scale - this optimises laser time.
## '''Interval'''. ''Only in scanning/engraving mode''. Set the distance between each laser pass. 0.1mm is the minimum distance, and will produce results similar to a printer - but it takes a lot of time. 0.2mm is a good average, you can't really see the space between the passes. You can go up to 0.4mm before it starts to be somewhat visible.
## '''Interval > Advance'''. The cut after sweeping option allows you to make a contour along the edges of what you engraved. This can be useful for making letters clearer for example, however it can also make your job messier (especially if there are lots of small details). You can set the settings for this just like you would for a normal cut, however you can lower the power down to as little as 5.7% for a very light outline.
# '''Place your material into the laser cutter'''. See [[#Materials|Materials]] below for a list of materials that you can use. It is recommended that you align your material as close to the upper left corner as possible, as that is where the laser is strongest.
# '''Make sure that the material is flat.''' Your cut/engrave will be of a lower quality if there is up to 0.5mm height difference, and your material may damage the laser machine if there is a 0.8mm or more height difference! Use yellow painting tape to stick it to the edges, or pick a different piece of your material if there is too much height difference.
# '''Align the mirror head.''' Laserworks cuts from the green square, so make sure that you align the mirror head to the top right side of your design on the material you're cutting, with the four blue arrow buttons on the laser machine. Measure out the total distance of your design (in laserworks, ctrl + a, then see the width and height in mm), and make sure that it doesn't go outside of your material and especially not outside of the cutting bed! You can use the 'Go scale' button to show you the outer dimensions of your cut without cutting on the laser machine.
# '''Align the height'''. There is an auto-focus feature on the laser, however unfortunately it is not currently functional due to a broken piece. Please see someone who knows how to use the laser to find out how to align the height correctly.
# '''Make a final check of everything'''. Make sure that there are no obstructions inside the laser machine, make sure that you've set all the correct cutting speeds and powers, and make sure that your cut/scan does not go outside of the borders of the cutting bed. If you want a preview of what the laser will do, select everything in Laserworks, and click the preview button on the top toolbar.
# '''Turn on the ventilation and close lid'''. Turn on the extraction fan by turning on the black powerstrip under the laser machine. Close the lid and put on your safety glasses.
# '''Start your cut/engrave!'''. After making sure that everything is good (and that you have the proper authorizations to use the laser machine), select everything you want to cut (ctrl + a), and press the 'Start' button in LaserWorks!
# '''Monitor the machine'''. Whilst the machine is working, you ''have'' to be nearby watching what it's doing!! If the material that you're cutting starts burning, immediately stop the cut, move the mirror head out of the way, and extinguish the fire with the fire blanket nearby (water will damage the machine). The renens fablab had their laser machine partially destroyed because someone went out to smoke whilst letting the laser cutter working - so pay attention!.
# '''After the machine has finished.''' When the job is finished, you will hear the laser beep three times, and you'll see the time on the small laser machine screen stop going up. Wait 30 seconds for the fumes to get extracted, and then proceed to open the lid. Make sure to remove all of the material from the machine - put the larger scraps on the shelves next to the machine for others to use, and throw away the smaller ones into the correct recycling bin. Remove any tape that remains, and move the mirror head to the top right side of the machine. Turn if off after leaving it to cool down for a few minutes (unless you're going to use it later in the day - it is best to leave it on in that case).
# '''Finish your pieces.''' Clean your completed pieces with compressed air (will get rid of all the carbon and dust accumulated), remove and protective tape, and optionally clean it with alcohol to remove any sediment (works great on both acrylic and wood).
# '''Leave the laser machine space as you found it.''' Remove your usb key, put all the things you used back into their places, and make sure that the place around the laser cutter is generally clean.
 
* Always cut with lid closed
* Always wear safety goggles
* Do not leave the laser cutter cutting without supervision
* Always cut with the ventilation system on (black power strip under laser cutter)
* Only use materials that are laser safe - see list below (TL;DR: never use PVC, don't cut metal)
* Be careful whilst using the control panel or the software to not start the laser by accident
** Be careful of the Pulse and Start-Pause buttons on laser cutter
** Be careful of the Start button on laser cutter software (particularly when resuming from standby..)

''This section is work in progress''

== Design software ==
=== Inkscape ===
# Make sure object is vector (if you import a svg or make your own drawing, it will be already a vector; however png's and jpg's aren't vectors)
## Select object, then open the Trace Bitmap menu (Path > Trace Bitmap)
## Play with the various single scan options, and click 'update' to see a preview
## Convert the object to a path (Path > Object to Path)
## Set stroke (Object > Fill and Stroke) of object to 0.25px and no fill
## For every different layer you want to cut/engrave on the laser (aka engraved with different power for gradients), you must create a new color of the stroke
# Save as as dxf (you need python-lxml for this part, apt-get install python-lxml or pip install lxml (doesn't work out of the box on mac))

=== Illustrator ===
==== Basic instructions ====
# [https://helpx.adobe.com/illustrator/tutorials.html Getting started with Illustrator]
# Make sure that all the things you want to cut/engrave are paths with a '''0.25mm stroke''' and '''no fill'''
# Place all the paths into the root of a layer - Laserworks does not recognise sublayers, linked files or grouped paths
# Each color you select for your paths will show up as a different settings layer in Laserworks (e.g. black lines can be set to cut, red lines set to engrave). Any layers in Illustrator will be merged.
# File > Export as '''dxf''', use R13/LT95 for the dxf format. Laserworks also supportes .ai files saved as Illustrator 8, but you may loose some editing functionality when saving with this, so be careful.

==== Text ====
# Select your text and remove the fill, then set a stroke of 0.25
# You must expand the text before importing it into Laserworks:
## When saving as dxf, select Outline Text
## Select text, then click Object > Expand. This will not allow you to edit the text afterwards, but works when saving as .ai

==== Bitmaps and images ====
# Drag your image into illustrator, and click on Image Trace (use the arrow on the right to find the best settings, or press the settings button to custom set the settings)
# Click the expand button

==== Outlines of shapes ====
[http://stickerobot.com/blog/die-cut-stickers/sticker-tutorial-making-die-cut-shapes-in-adobe-illustrator/ Sticker tutorial] but also applicable to laser cutting

=== Rhino ===
Used by Swisskoo and marc

=== Blender ===
Used by [[User:oenvoyage]]
# work with 2D bezier curves and add some extrusion (typically the width of your wood) while modeling your plates
# enable the Export Autocad DXF exporter Addon (File->User Preferences-> AddOn-> search DXF)
# before exporting: reduce the extrusion to 0, switch back your curves to 3D mode (Data panel-> shape-> 3D)
# Convert your bezier curves to Mesh (Alt-C)
# File -> Export -> Autocad (.dxf)
Somehow the DXF exported directly is not recognized by LaserWork, so you have to open it in Illustrator and save again as .dxf and make sure it's R13/LT95 format

=== Autodesk Inventor ===
Used by Swisskoo and [[User:Nemen]]

==== Export to .dxf ====

# Right-click on the face of your part you want to export.
# Choose "Export face as"
# Type the filename and click on Save

== Laser software ==
The laser cutter is controlled by [https://foo.fixme.ch/laser/RDCAMSetup5.0.27.exe RDCam] (version 5.2.06 installed on Atelier computer, other versions available on foo), it's manual is here [[File:Rdcam_manual.pdf]]. When installing, you have to install it in 'demo mode', otherwise Laserworks won't open without a cutter connected (also don't forget to select english ;).

[[File:Laserworks-setup.png|300px]]

RDCam would not install in crossover (gui for wine), but feel free to try. Please note that .rld files created in different versions of the software are not inter-compatible unfortunately. [http://stefan.schuermans.info/rdcam/ This guy] started reverse engineering the (scrambled) communications and .rld protocols, he has also managed to get it to work on wine.

[[File:Rdcam manual.pdf]]

== Materials ==
=== Wood ===
4mm wood - 28-45mm/s @ 100% for cutting, depending on location on laser bed. 35 is a good average. Engraving is good at 500mm/s, you can engrave from 6% to 30-50-60% ish - this needs to be further clarified. 15-20% with a 0.2 interval gives a good clean result.

6mm wood - 20-30mm/s

=== Cardboard ===
40mm/s

=== Paper ===
No testing done yet

=== Acrylic ===
8-20mm/s, engraving at 20% 500mm/s

=== Rubber ===
# Focus laser at 6mm higher than usual (use two pieces of 3mm plexi)
# Engrave at 200mm/s, 20% and 0.2 unilat
# Do 6 passes total, changing the unilaterism between x and y for an even surface
# Clean surface with compressed air to remove the rubber dust between passes
# Stick rubber cut part onto a support material for when you want to make a stamp

Marc has bought A4 sheets at 57 CHF sheet, however [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] you can get them for 20$ per single sheet, or for 7$ [http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Scentless-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stampEco-friendly-laser-rubber-sheet-for-stamp/815226364.html here] if you buy in lots of 5.

=== Mylar/thin plastic ===
[http://juanjchong.com/2014/cutting-mylar-solder-stencils-from-expresspcb-and-eaglecad-files/ This] might be an interesting technique to try for thin plastics, such as those used for PCB stencils. The idea is that you have two layers of the material that you cut at the same time, the top one will be scrapped after, but the bottom one should be good - need to try this technique.

=== Others ===
There still needs to be extensive testing done to see which materials work and which don't, but basically the gist of it is: don't use anything that has PVC in it, and don't use metal (unless for engraving -> need to explore options). There have been some tests with rubber (for stamps) as well, this needs to be properly documented and more testing needs to be done.

[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]

=== NEVER CUT THESE MATERIALS ===

'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html a simple process].

{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"
|-
! Material
! DANGER!
! Cause/Consequence
|-
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
| Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.
|-
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.
|-
| ABS
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).
|-
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic
| Catches fire and melts
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.
|-
| PolyStyrene Foam
| Catches fire
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!
|-
| PolyPropylene Foam
| Catches fire
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.
|-
| Fiberglass
| Emits fumes
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)
|-
| Coated Carbon Fiber
| Emits noxious fumes
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.
|}

List from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX hackerspace]'s wiki

== Hardware ==
Search terms: Ebay 100w laser or just 100w laser - it's a generic design (3500~4000 usd for laser cutter with/without shipping depending on source, ~1000 usd for laser tube with shipping). RD-ACS [http://rdacs.en.alibaba.com/product/1560634708-220105172/laser_machine_control_card.html controller] (generic controller so used in lots of laser cutters).

[[File:Laser_front.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_top.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_control_panel.jpg|500px]] [[File:Laser_cutter_tube.jpg|500px]]

== Photos ==
'''Wood'''

[[File:Fixme wooden tags by QR code printer.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_flexible_living_corners.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_engraving_tests.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_donut.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_giant_qr_code.jpg|246px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_the_world!.JPG|555px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_wooden_art.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_QR_code_tokens.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_10mm_wood.jpg|500px]]

'''Cardboard'''

[[File:Laser_cutting_rpi_case.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_cardboard_Raspberry_Pi_case.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_cardboard_Fixme_logo.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_cut_motivational_sign.jpg|500px]]

'''Acrylic'''

[[File:Alexis_Roussel_holding_BTC_logo_cut_at_Fixme.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_acrylic_fixme_logo.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser_fixme_logo_in_keychain.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Laser cutter early acrylic test.jpg|500px]]

'''Rubber'''

[[File:FIXME_laser_cut_rubber_stamp.jpg|500px]]
[[File:Rubber_stamp_closeup_after_engraving_whilst_still_in_sheet.jpg|500px]]

'''Others'''

[[File:Laser cutter authorized materials.jpg|500px]]

The Event

2015-08-21T15:55:32Z

Sasha: Created the event

https://pad.fixme.ch/p/event

NurdNodes

2015-08-19T22:15:33Z

Sasha: Created page with information regarding NurdNodes

Really cool LEDs made by Nurdspace

https://nurdspace.nl/NurdNode

== Assembly ==
Assembly instructions http://nodes.nurdspace.nl/?page_id=6

'''Assembly notes'''
* Set up power supply voltage before hand
* If using a CH430 FTDI cable, download firmware from [this sketchy site http://www.wch.cn/download/CH341SER_ZIP.html]
* Connect arduino pro mini with [http://www.chillitronix.co.uk/index.php?page=ch340g-usage this] method, then select it via Tools > Board and Tools > Port in Arduino IDE
* Copy the libraries in the git into Documents/Arduino/libraries
* DIP switches are at 0 when they're at the middle, and 1 when they are pushed away from the numbers

5th Anniversary

2015-08-19T11:04:31Z

Sasha: Added laser game suggestion

[[Category:Ongoing_Projects]]
== Information ==
* This year (2015) is the 5th anniversary of the FIXME association / Cette année (2015), l'association FIXME fête ses 5 ans !
* The association was created on the 30th of september in 2010, https://lists.saitis.net/cgi-bin/mailman/private/hackerspace-lausanne/2010-September/000108.html
* L'anniversaire se déroulera le '''samedi 24 octobre 2015''', notez bien la date dans vos agendas
** Pick a date: https://framadate.org/m6u1kw6ypikch7gi
* Pad de préparation: https://pad.fixme.ch/p/5thAnniversary

== Activities ==
Ideas listing / Liste de vos idées pour cette journée de fête

* Outdoor jaccuzzi with http://jaccuzzi.ch/html/accueil.html
** We have to find a way to make it nerdy (LEDs, underwater sound, ...) Underwater robot like the PTL one
* Music
** Live band: Path of Desolation (Metal) ?
*** https://www.facebook.com/band.pathofdesolation
*** https://www.facebook.com/buriedskies
** DJ
** ...
* Tent with food (bbq) / ou en cas de mauvais temps, fondue
* Drone tournament (drone fights, agility/obstacle contest, drone races) indoor
** parcours au 3ème avec passage d'anneaux (Si on attend beaucoup de monde, il faudra peut-etre protéger les spéctateur avec des filets) ou des raquettes :)
** un espace formation avec la possibilité d'essayé des drones (proposé par Kat) <- il faudrait avoir qques petits drones solides, style http://www.amazon.com/Hogs-Helix-Stunt-Quad-Copter/dp/B00DPGV4A6
* Combat de vaches, raclette, saucisses de veau
* paintball
* Laser game
* Your ideas here